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Problems in Farm Woodwork 

For Agricultural Schools, High Schools, 
Industrial Schools, and Country Schools 

By Samuel A. Blackburn 

Director of Manual Training. Oak Cliff High School, Dallas. Texas 

Formerly Teacher of Woodworking. Forjrini? and Mechanical Drawinpr 

in the Agricultural High School, Si)rinK Valley. Minnesota 

and Supervisor of the Teaching of Woodworking 

in the Associated Rural Schools. 




The Manual Arts Press 



Peoria, Illinois 

1915 



Copyright. 1915 
Samuel A. Blackburn 



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JAN -8 1916 

(S)Ji.A4t8<J33 



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PREFACE. 



IN many states laws have been passed, requiring the 
teaching of industrial subjects in all schools within the 
state. In many instances state funds are provided to aid 
this work in the high schools of farming communities, and 
in rural schools. The trend of the manual training courses 
in such schools is toward practical work, and toward cor- 
relation with agriculture. 

In many of these agricultural high schools, short courses 
are given during the four winter months for the benefit of 
those young men and women on the farm who have found 
it impossible to attend school thruout the year. To the 
young men in these classes, the practical work that can be 
given in the manual training courses appeals strongly. In 
many cases, boys become enough interested in work of this 
character to procure sets of tools for use in their own shops 
on the farm. With the understanding of the use of tools 
and of terms used in woodworking such as are learned in 
the manual training classes, and with the help of problems 
such as are oflfered in this book, these boys can work out 
many things by themselves and become proficient in this 
kind of work. 

It is not intended that this book be used as a text, altho 
by selecting problems from it an efficient course of study 



could be worked out by the instructor. The aim of this book 
is to place before the teacher and pupil the best forms, the 
best construction and the correct dimensions of objects 
that can be correlated with work in ag'riculture. 

There may be a tendency toward careless work by some 
pupils in problems as large as these, and it must be im- 
pressed well upon the mind of each student that there is 
great need for accuracy in all these problems, else the edu- 
cational purpose of the work will be defeated. 

In getting together these problems the author has con- 
sulted successful farmers, fruit growers, bee raisers, gar- 
deners, carpenters, and other workmen in order to get the 
best type of each problem, and to make it simple, practical, 
and the best fitted for its particular use. He has designated 
kinds of material that may be bought from any lumber yard 
and hardware store, and has used only the commercial sizes 
of lumber. 

Suggestions for a few of these problems have been taken 
from bulletins issued by the United States Department of 
Agriculture, the Manual Training Magazine, a Minnesota 
University bulletin, and a Kansas State Agricultural College 
bulletin. The author is most indebted, however, to the 
students who have worked with him during past' years. 

S. A. BLACKBURN. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



I. Shop Problems. Plate 

Sack Holder 1 

Nail Box 1 

Tool Carriers (two types) 2 

Saw Horses (three types) 3 

Handles 4 

Hammer; Pick; Sledge; File; Vise. 

Drawing Board 5 

Miter Box S 

Tool Chest (small) 6 

Tool Chest 7 

Nail Cabinet 8 

Screw Cabinet 8 

Work Bench 9 

II. Poultry Problems. 

Row of Nests for Laying Hens 10 

Nest for a Sitting Hen 10 

A-shaped Coop for Hen and Chickens 11 

Box Coop 11 

Chicken Feeder 12 

Watering Trough 12 

Oats Sprouter 12 

Chicken Crate 13 

Egg Tester 13 

III. Seed Corn Problems. 

Seed Corn Testing Tray 14 

Frame for Testing Tray 14 

Corn Tray for Exhibition Purposes IS 

Seed Corn Crate 15 

Seed Corn Rack 16 

Cabinet for Seeds and Small Grain 17 

Seed Corn Sled 18 

IV. Y.\RD Problems. 

Bird Houses 19 

Chickadee; Tree Swallow; ?Iouse Wren; Martin 
House. 



Plate 

Frame for Hammock 20 

Gates 21 

Farm Gates; Garden or Yard Gate (two types). 

A Flight of Steps , 22 

Sa wbuck 23 

Rabbit Trap 23 

Porch Swing 24 

Dog House 25 

V. House Problems. 

Bench 26 

Bread Cutting Board 26 

Swing Board 26 

Fly Trap : 27 

Ironing IBoards (two types) 28 

Door Screen 29 

Window Screen 29 

Kitchen Table 30 

Kitchen Sink 31 

Kitchen Cabinet 32 

VI. Garden Problems. 

Tomato Trellis ■ 33 

Trellis for Small Vine 33 

Row Marker 33 

Shrub Label 33 

Transplanter 33 

Step Ladder 34 

Fruit Picking Ladder 34 

Potato Marker 35 

Garden Marker 36 

Cold Frame 37 

VII. Stock Problems. 

Hog Troughs 38 

Grain Trough for Feeding Sheep 39 

Feeding Trough for .Stock 40 

LTnloading Chute 41 

Individual Hog Cot ,42 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



VIII. Barn Yard Problems. Plate 

Milking Stools (four types) 43 

Evener , 44 

Singletree 44 

Neckyoke 44 

Wagon Box ^45. 

Wagon Box Details 46 

Spring Seat 47 

Wagon Jacks (two types) .48 

Sand Box 49 

Hog Coop (to fit wagon box) 50 

Hay Frame • 51 

Pigeon House 52 

Brush and Curry-comb Cabinet for Barn S3 

Scales and a Convenient Case for Weighing and Sampl- 
ing Milk 53 



IX. 



X. 



XL 



Bee Raising Problems. Plate 

Bee Hive 54 

Bee Hive Details 55 

Bee Hive for the Amateur 56 

Concrete Forms. 

Concrete Mixing Box 57 

Form for Concrete Post 57 

Concrete Form for Silo Foundation 58 

Details of Silo Form Construction 59 

Other Problems. 

Mouse Proof Cage for Agricultural Exhibits 60 



WORKING DRAWINGS 

AND 

WORKING DIRECTIONS 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



SACK HOLDER. 

Purpose. This sack holder will appeal to the boy for its 
great convenience in many ways. It not only supports the 
sack in an upright position, but also holds open the mouth 
of the sack making it easy to fill without an extra helper. 

Material. 

One piece l%"xlO"xlSj/4", oak or some heavy wood. 
One piece %"x8"x6'8" pine. 
Twenty-two 1^2" No. 9 screws. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece lM"xlO"xl5", for base. 
Two pieces M"x8"x3'3", for uprights. 
Two pieces ^."xiy2"KS", for cross cleats at top. 

Tools. Saws, plane, compass, pencil, try-square, wood 
file, screw-driver, brace and /a" twist drill. 

Directions. Finish the base to dimensions given in the 
drawing. Lay off the two upright pieces. (This problem 
should be constructed in such a way as to keep the weight 
as much as possible at the bottom, hence the cutting away 
of the uprights, leaving just enough strength to support a 
full sack. Shape the uprights according to the drawing, 
sawing the curves with a coping saw and finishing the 
middle straight part with a rip saw. Use part of this wood 
sawed out for the cross cleats at the top. 

Assembly. Put on the cleats at the top, using three 
screws in each. Fasten uprights to base, using eight screws 
on each side. A number of screws are necessary at this 
point, since the holder is purposely made a little wide, al- 
lowing spring at the top to hold the mouth of the sack 
apart with a firm grip. 

NAIL BOX. 

Purpose. The nail box is one of the best problems that 
can be used, being suitable for any community. Many of 



these boxes have been devised, but usually they are too 
small. This one is large enough, and convenient. 

A knife box may be designed from the same drawing by 
leaving out the partitions and making the base 8"xl2" and 
the depth of the box 2-]-". 

Material, 

One piece ^"xl0"xl6", pine or basswood. 

One piece K"x8"x2'10". 

One piece 3/4" x6" xlSyi" . 

A number of 6d. finishing nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

One piece ^"xlO"xl6" for base. 
Two pieces 14" x3%." xW for sides. 
Two pieces ^"x3^"x9" for ends. 
One piece %"x5i4"xl5" for handle. 
Three pieces ^"x3j4"x4>^" for partitions. 

Tools. Saw, plane, rule, pencil, try-square, brace, f" bit, 
chisel, hammer and wood file. 

Directions. Make the sides, ends, and partitions from 
the 8" board. Rip the board thru the middle the entire 
length and lay out and finish pieces to dimensions given in 
bill of stock. Finish the base board to correct dimensions. 
To make the handle partition, plane the |" piece to f" x 
5Y' X 15". With a pencil gage draw a line on both sides of 
the piece 1^" from the edge. Locate the center of this line, 
also locate point 2" on each side of the center. Set compass 
to iV' radius. Put the lead point on the points last found 
and the compass point in the line, and draw a semi-circle. 
Repeat at opposite end. Connect semi-circles with straight 
lines. To shape handle partition, measure in 5-}/' from each 
end, and down 1-|" from the same point. Connect the points 
just made. Bore out the handle hole with the |" bit, and 
chisel the wood remaining. Saw and plane to the slant lines. 
Round off sharp edges of handle with plane and wood file. 

Assembly. Nail first the sides to base, then nail in the 
ends. Nail in the handle partition, then the cross partitions. 
These may be arranged to suit the workman. 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



TOOL CARRIER. 

Purpose. These tool carriers are excellent for use as tool 
receptacles, as well as for carrying tools from one place to 
another. The first carrier is made low so that it will easily 
slide under the seat of a buggy. It is somewhat difficult of 
construction, there being several hopper joints. The second 
is perhaps more easily carried, as it may be held in several 
different positions, or two men may each take an end. Both 
carriers will serve the same general purpose. 

No. 1. 
Material. 

One piece J/2"x8"x2'9" pine. 

One piece ^"x8"x3'l". 

One piece K"x6"x8'6". 

One piece I;4"x2"x3". 

A number of 6d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece J4"x8"x2'9" for bottom. 
Two pieces i^"x5^"x3'2" for sides. 
Two pieces J4"x5;^"xl2" for ends. 
One piece 54"x7^"3'54" for handle partition. 
One piece lJ4"x2"x3" for saw holder. 



bit, rule, pencil. 



Tools. Saw, plane, T-bevel, brace, 1' 
compass, chisel, and hammer. 

Directions. Set T-bevel on the square at an angle of 5" 
to 3". (See the illustration at the left upper corner of the 
plate.) Use this angle in making all the joints. Make the 
bottom board 2'8" long plus the length added by beveling 
the ends. Plane the side pieces to 5^" wide and bevel the 
edges as shown in the end view of the drawing. Make the 
upper edge of the side pieces 3'2" long; from these longest 
points draw lines at an angle with the T-bevel, and saw. 
Make the ends in the same manner. It is best to nail the box 
part together before making the handle partition. The 



longest inside measurement of the carrier is V\" . Lay off 
this length at a point \\" from the lower edge of the handle 
partition. Using the T-bevel mark the slant, and saw. 
Notice that the opening in the handle is 9" long. This al- 
lows the carrier to balance well even though the tools are 
heavier at one end. Lay out the opening for the handle 
1^" from the upper edge. With a 1" bit bore out the wood, 
and finish with a chisel. Taper the handle as shown in the 
drawing. To make the saw holder, use a saw that cuts a 
small kerf. Carry the saws teeth up. 



No. 2. 



Material. 



One piece ;^"xl2"x2'6^" pine. 

One piece >4"xlO"x2'6j4". 

One piece M"xl2"x2'4". 

One piece M"x7"x2'6i/$". 

A number of 6d. common nails and 6d. finishing nails. 



Bill of Stock. 

stock. 



The pupil will make out his own bill of 



Tools. Saws, plane, chisel, rule, pencil, gauge and ham- 
mer. 

Directions. The construction of this carrier is simple, 
the end pieces being the only ones that require any work 
other than sawing and planing. To make the ends, mark 
points on each edge 4|" from the bottom. Find the middle 
of the upper end, and mark points \" on each side of the 
middle. Connect the two sets of points which mark the 
slant on the ends. Make the notch in the middle of the 
upper end so that it will allow the handle to slip down snug 
and tight. Saw the notch to exactly \" wide and \\" deep, 
and chisel out the piece. Saw off the corners leaving a little 
space for planing a smooth surface.' Round off the sharp 
corners at the top and on the handle, but leave the ends of 
the handle with sharp edges to fit into the notches. 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



SAW HORSES. 

Purpose. Saw horses are needed wherever woodworking 
of any kind is done. They are used also by painters, paperers, 
plasterers, brick layers, — in fact, every tradesman has use for 
a set of saw horses. Saw horse No. 1 is especially good for 
a cabinet maker or one who repairs furniture. The cotton 
and canvas pad does not mar the wood in fine cabinet work, 
nor the finish of any article of furniture that is being re- 
paired. Horse No. 2 is light and easily moved, and es- 
pecially good for light material ; while No. 3 is made for 
holding heavy timbers. The measurements in each instance 
may be changed to suit any special or individual need. A 
horse used by a painter is often made six to eight inches 
wide at the top with cross pieces nailed on to the legs to 
make a ladder. This wide top affords a platform for the 
painter to stand on. Carpenters sometimes make these 
horses six or seven feet high with the ladder part attached, 
and iise them for working on low buildings, using them in- 
stead of ladders and staging. 

No. 1. 

■ Material. Pine, basswood, or any light wood. 
Pine, basswood, or any light wood. 
One piece ^^"x8Jx8'.^^ 
One piece %"x6"x24". 
One piece H"x4"xl9". 
One strip of canvas 13"x3'10". 
One strip of canvas 15"x3'10". 
Two dozen VA" flat head screws. 
Some cotton or excelsior. 
A number of tacks and 8d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
Four pieces %"x4"x2'3" for legs. 
Two pieces %"x.4"x3'6''/i'' for stretchers. 
Two pieces %"x6"xl2" for ends. 
Two pieces %"x2"xl9" for end braces. 



Tools. Saw, plane, rule, pencil, try-square, T-bevel, 
screw-driver gage and hammer. 

Directions. Set the T-bevel on the square at an angle of 
3" to 8". (See illustration on Plate 2.) This angle is used 
to lay out the bevel on the legs, also the bevel of the upper 
edges of the stretchers and the ends and braces. Lay out 
the bevel on each leg and piece, and saw and plane to the 
dimensions given in the bill of stock. 

Assembly. Put the stretchers on each pair of legs with 
screws. Nail on the ends and lower braces. Screws may be 
used in the end pieces, but nails will do very well. Before 
putting on the lower piece of canvas be sure that no sharp 
edges are underneath the canvas to make it wear easily. 
Stretch the canvas over tightly and tack securely ; put in 
the cotton or excelsior and tack on the top piece of canvas 
as shown in the detail in the drawing. 

No. 2. 

Material. Pine. 

One piece 2"x4"x3'. 
One piece %"x8"x5'6". 
Thirt3'-two IVi" flat head screws. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece 2"x4"x3' for stretcher. 
Four pieces />^"x4"x2'2^" for legs. 
Two pieces Ji"x4"xl3%" for braces. 

Tools. Saws, rule, plane, pencil, try-square, screw-driver, 
T-bevel, chisel and mallet. 

Directions. Saw and plane the different pieces to sizes 
indicated by bill of stock. Set the T-bevel at an angle of 
1" to 6". Measure in 4" from each end of the 2" x 4" piece 
and mark straight across the top side with the try-square. 
At each end of this line, drop down on the sides of the 2x4 
using the given angle of the T-bevel. Draw lines 4" further 



Plate 3 



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14 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



in on the 2x4 and parallel to the lines just drawn. Set the 
gage to iV' ^i^d gage between the lines on the top side, 
leaving the lower edge flush, as shown in the detail. Saw 
and chisel out the triangles thus formed. Bevel ofif opposite 
ends of the legs to make them stand level on the floor. Lay 
out and saw the brace for each end of the saw horse. Bevel 
the upper edge to make it fit up under the stretcher. 

Assembly. Fasten the legs with 2" screws, using four or 
five screws for each leg. Also fasten on the end braces with 
screws. 



No. 3. 
Material. Pine. 

One piece 4"x4"x3'6". 
One piece 2"x4"xl0'6". 
One piece ^"x4"x5'4". 

Assembly. This problem is so much like saw horse No. 
2 that the bill of stock and directions will almost be a 
repetition. The pupil with a little thought, can make out 
his own bill of stock and manner of procedure. If all points 
are not clear, then the directions for No. 2 may be resorted 
to. 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



IS 



HANDLES. 

Purpose. The ability to make handles proves most useful 
when a handle is broken and work must stop until some 
one goes to town after a new one. These handles are the 
types of the kinds used around a shop. Wood for handles 
should be tough, not brittle, and close grained. Ash is 
sometimes used, and sometimes a good piece of willow can 
be found. Second growth hickory is the best material for 
handles. By this we mean the quick growing sprouts that 
come up around the stump after the old tree is cut down. 
Slow growing hickory is more brittle and has more knots, 
making it less adaptable. 

Hammer Handles. 
Material. 

One piece 1.34"xly8"xl4i^" hickory. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

One piece I^>^"xn4"xl4". 

Tools. Saw, plane, try-square, rule, gage, spokeshave, 
and wood file. 

Directions. Square up material to dimensions given in 
bill of stock. On wide surfaces, beginning 5^" from one 
end, draw slanting lines, tapering from H" at the 5^' mark, 
to TJ" at the other end, and plane to slanting lines. On nar- 
row surfaces, from the same point, draw slanting lines taper- 
ing from Tl" to j" at the small end, and plane to lines. With 
spokeshave shave the small part of the handle to ItV" i" 
width and 5" in thickness, bevel corners with spokeshave 
so that handle will be eight-sided, after which remove each 
sharp edge, making the handle elliptical in cross section 
from large end to within 3" of small end. The small end, 
which is to go thru the eye of the hanmier head, should be 



left nearly rectangular, with corners slightly rounded. 
Smooth the handle with fine sandpaper and put on a thin 
coat of orange shellac or linseed oil. The boy should be 
encouraged to make a handle to fit some hammer at home, 
changing dimensions given in drawing if necessary. In 
fitting handle to hammer head the small end will probably 
have to be reduced in size. This can best be done with a 
wood file. When the small end has been driven well thru 
the eye of the hammer head, it should be split with a chisel 
and a sharp hardwood wedge driven in, spreading the end 
so that the hammer head will not fly ofl: when being used. 

Sledge Handle. 

Material. 

One piece Ws"xl34"x2'8" hickory. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece l^"xli/4"x2'8". 

Tools. Same as for hammer handle. 

Directions. Make the sledge handle with the same opera- 
tions as are used in making the hammer handle. 

Pick Handle. 

Material. 

One piece 2^4"x3l4"x3' hickory. 

Bill of Stock. 

One piece 2"x3"x2'll5^''. 

Tools. Same as for hammer handle. 

Directions. Same as for hammer and sledge handles. 
The difl^erence between this and the foregoing handles is 
readily seen to be in the tool end of the handle. The sledge 
and hammer handles were made small to go thru the eye of 



16 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



the hammer head, while the pick handle is largest at the 
pick end. The pick is slipped on from the back, thus needing 
no wedge, the constant driving and pulling keeping the 
pick in place. 

Vise Handle. 

Material. 

One piece %"x%"xl6^" hickory or oak. 
One dowel >4"x4". 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece M"x%"xl6". 
Two dowels i/^"xli^". 

Tools. Saw, plane, try-square, rule, gage, wood file, 
brace, ^'' bit, and compass. 

Directions. Plane material to dimensions given in bill 
of stock. Draw a center line and measure in If" from each 
end and mark. On these points bore ^" holes. Draw cir- 
cles on each end with the compass set at f" radius. Plane 
handle to eight sided figure, then sixteen sided figure and 
finish of¥ edges with wood file. Round ends of dowels. 



Insert a dowel in one end and put in a small brad to hold in 
place. Slip the handle thru vise before inserting the other 
dowel. 

File Handles. 
Material. 

One piece Ii4"xlj4"xl2" hickory. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece l"xl"xll^". 

Tools. Saw, plane, compass, rule, gage, spokeshave, wood 
file, and small gimlet. 

Directions. Square up material to dimensions given in 
bill of stock. Draw a regular eight sided figure at each end, 
and plane to these lines. Draw a circle at each end of ^" 
diameter, and beginning back from end 3", shave down with 
spokeshave to circle. Round off sharp edges with wood 
file. Bore a small gimlet hole in each end. Saw the piece 
into two equal parts, and round off the newly made ends 
with the file. 



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18 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



DRAWING BOARD. 

Purpose. A drawing board is a useful article in almost 
any trade or profession. If its use were better understood 
it would be a much more common article. It can be used 
for many things about the home as well as the office, not 
only for drawing plans, but for lettering work, design work, 
etc. It always furnishes a smooth flat surface which makes 
it very desirable. 

This drawing board is one of the best types altho more 
difificult of construction than some others. The wedge 
shaped piece that has been pushed into the opening made 
for it allows the face of the drawing board to swell and 
shrink and yet keep its straight, smooth surface. More com- 
mon types, the joints of which are shown at A and B, are 
more easily constructed, but not so good as the one shown 
here. Detail A shows the end of the board with a groove 
plowed out, and a lengthwise strip with a tongue fitting the 
groove, glued to the end grain. Detail B, the most easily 
constructed board, is merely the flat drawing surface with 
two strips screw^ed onto the back. 

Material. Extra clear white pine. 
One piece %"xl0"x6'6". 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

Eight pieces 3^"x2r,$"x24" for face of board. 
Two pieces ^"x2H"x20" for strips. 

Tools. Saws, jointer plane, try-square, rule, pencil, gage, 
and chisel. 

Directions and Assembly. The bill of stock calls for 
eight pieces 2V' wide. This width is not absolutely neces- 
sary. Narrower pieces are even better. See that the end 
grain in each piece runs opposite to the one just before it, 
as shown in the side view of the drawing. Join enough 
pieces so that when completed the board will be 20" wide. 



Before gluing, the pieces should be about 25" or 26" long 
so as to allow for errors in planing and assembling. Glue 
the pieces together. When the glue has set lay off and 
mark the opening for the wedge-shaped strips. This groove 
may be made with a special plane used for the purpose or 
by sawing down almost to dimensions and carefully chisel- 
ing the remainder. Bevel the strips and push into the 
opening made for them. 

MITER BOX. 

Purpose. The miter box is an almost indispensable article 
for the shop. Many large expensive miter boxes are now 
offered on the market, but as a rule they are not so depend- 
able after they become worn as the miter box here shown. 
When this box is worn out it is an easy matter to make a 
new box. This box has an advantage in that it can be car- 
ried in an ordinary tool-box. You will notice the board 
projecting V' below the bottom. This forms a catch to 
hold against the edge of the bench or a place for a vise to 
hold. 

Material. Pine. 

One piece I^"x4"x20". 
One piece ^"x6"x3'4". 
Ten llA" No. 9 flat head screws. 

Bill of Stock. To be made by pupil. 

Tools. Saws, plane, try-square, rule, pencil, brace, ^" 
bit, and screw-driver. 

Directions and Assembly. Finish pieces to dimensions 
given in the drawing. Fasten with screws in about the 
positions shown. Especial care must be taken to keep 
everything straight and square as the correctness of the 
miter depends upon this. Measure in 5|" from one end, and 
draw a line straight across with the square. Measure over 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



5^" farther, and square across ; again measure over 4-|", 
and square across. With the square, drop lines down from 
each of these points on the outside of the box. Draw the 
diagonals between the first and second lines. Care must be 
taken in drawing all these lines, as a very small mistake 
will cause an error in the miter. Saw out these lines care- 
fully. 

SMALL TOOL CHEST. 

Purpose. This chest is designed for a mechanic's tool 
chest that has to be moved about often. It is made small 
enough so that a handle may be put on the side, and the 
chest carried much the same as a suit case, altho handles 
may be put at each end for carrying heavy tools. The ad- 
vantage of this chest is that it takes up little room and it is 
easy to transport. 

Material. Pine or basswood. 
One piece ^"x8"xl6'. 
One piece i/^"x8"x8'. 
One pair 2" butt hinges. 
One lock. 

Five and one-half feet of is"xVA" iron. 

A number of 6d. and 8d. common nails, also some screws oi 
rivets. 



Bill of Stock. The pupil may make out his own bill of 
stock by referring to the drawing. 

Tools. Saws, plane, try-square, rule, pencil, brace, drill 
for holes for screws, countersink, chisel, screw-driver, gage, 
and hammer. 

Directions. Glue two 8" pieces together for the top, also 
two for the bottom. Work all pieces to dimensions shown 
in the drawing. 

Assembly. Make the bottom part first. Nail the sides 
and ends together, and then nail on the bottom. Repeat 
this for the top section. Nail together the till. Nail in the 
two cross strips for the till to rest on, 4f" from the top of 
the lower box. Hinge the lid at the back, and put in the 
lock at the front. Cut and bend pieces of flat iron to proper 
lengths, lay out and bore the holes at convenient places, and 
fasten on either with screws or rivets. 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



TOOL CHEST. 

Purpose. The first thing a boy or man thinks of when he 
has secured some tools is a chest in which to keep them. 
The chest must be long enough to hold saws and have 
space enough at the bottom for the more bulky tools, such as 
planes and braces. It must have tills at the top to accom- 
modate small tools that are difficult to find when put in 
the bottom with the larger tools. The till of the chest may 
be made the size of the upper part of the chest, but this 
necessitates the removal of the till to get at the tools in the 
bottom. The ordinary way of making tills is to have them 
about one-half or two-thirds the width of the chest. They 
are made to slide backward and forward, enabling the 
owner to get at tools below without lifting out the tills. 
The bottom one may be made stationary and the upper one 
movable. Some chests are made with only one till. This 
chest is designed to meet all requirements. The tills are 
made 8" wide. An important requirement of a chest is 
that it shall be strong enough to withstand hard usage. 
To add to its strength and durability a metal top is put on 
and metal corners are used at the bottom. Screws are used 
to a great extent instead of nails. 

Material. 

One piece M"x8"xl6'. 

One piece M"xl2"x8'. 

One piece ^"x8"xl0'. 

One piece 5^"x8"x8'. 

One piece No. 26 gage galvanized iron 18"x2'H". 

Four pieces No. 26 gage galvanized" iron 2"x4". 

One pair 3" butt hinges. 

One lock. 

Five dozen 1%" No. 9 screws. 

A number of tacks and 8d. finishing nails. 



Bill of Stock. The pupil will make out his own bill of 
stock. 

Tools. Saws, planes, miter box, chisel, screw-driver, 
brace, and set of twist drills, tinner's shears, mallet, try- 
square, square, rule, pencil, and gage. 

Directions. Cut all pieces to dimensions shown in the 
drawing. Glue together two 8" boards for the top and 
bottom pieces and saw to dimensions. Lay ofif and cut 
rabbet joint as shown in detail of corner. Plane f " chamfer 
on pieces marked A, B, C, D, but do not miter corners at 
this time. Plow pieces E and F to one-half the thickness of 
the pieces and ^" deep so as to let in the V' top piece. Do 
not miter. Plow out piece G leaving |" at the bottom for 
a support for the lower till, or use Y' piece and nail on a 
cleat below. 

Assembly. Nail the sides and ends together. Put on the 
bottom piece. Miter one corner of one of the base pieces. 
Place exactly even with one corner and mark the other cor- 
ner and miter to line. Cut each side in the same way, being 
careful that each piece is put on the side for which it was 
measured. Treat each of the four pieces that support the 
lid in the same way. Miter pieces E and F in the same way. 
Fit in top piece and nail. Nail in the support for the tills. 
Nail together both tills, and place them in chest. Now put 
on the galvanized iron top. Bend over one long edge ^". 
Fit to an edge and tack on. Work down smoothly over the 
top and bend over opposite edge and tack. Starting at the 
center of each end and working toward the outer edges 
bend over the ends. With shears cut out corners carefully. 
Finish nailing. Put on the hinges and lastly the lock. Cut, 
bend, and tack on the four lower corner pieces. 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



NAIL CABINET. 

Purpose. This cabinet should be found in every shop ; 
its order, convenience, and economy being entirely worth 
the making. It is designed not only for nails, but also for 
staples of various kinds, roofing nails and tins, etc. To add 
to its convenience, print or paint below the mouth of each 
section the name and size of the article within. Eight penny 
nails will be marked "8d. com." 

Material. 

(1) Two pieces %"xl0"xl6'pine. 

(2) One piece i/2"xl2"x6'8". 

(3) One piece i^"x4i4"x3'3^". 

(4) One piece of tin 27^"x3'3^" or the same amount of thin 
wood for back, also a number of 6d. and 8d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. Make out the bill of stock from the draw- 



Tools, Saws, plane, hammer, chisel, square, try-square, 
dividers, rule, pencil, knife, gage, coping saw and half-round 
wood file. 

Directions. Lay ofif and saw the two 10" boards into 
pieces for the top, bottom, sides, and partitions as shown in 
the drawing. Make the joints in the horizontal partition 
first, using the saw and then chiseling down to Y'- (If you 
have a router plane, set to ^" and plane.) Plane both edges 
of No. 2, in list of material. Set gage to 5V' and gage a line 
from each edge of the board. This leaves the surplus 
material in the middle of the piece. Square one end of the 
board ; measure in 4f ", and with square draw line entirely 
across the board ; measure in four times, using 7-g" each time 
and draw lines across ; lastly measure 4|", and saw off to 
line. Repeat this same process on the remainder of the 
board. Set the dividers or compass to 3^". Measure in 
7f" on these lines and using this point as a center describe 
an arc, cutting the 5-|" gage line. From the opposite end 



of this line repeat the same process. Mark off on all lines. 
Rip the board into two pieces and plane down to gage lines. 
Saw out curves with coping saw and file edges smooth. 
Saw and plane off one of these 5^" boards to 5", for the 
lower face board in the drawing. 



' 4 



Assembly. Beginning at board A, nail on four of the' 
partition boards. Place and nail the board C. Like- 
wise put on boards D and E and partition boards. Fit and 
nail in end pieces. Nail on the lower face piece at bottom 
of cabinet. Nail on remainder of pieces to measurements 
shown in 'drawing:. Tack on tin for back or nail on boards. 



SCREW CABINET. 

Purpose. As a companion for the nail cabinet, the screw 
cabinet is a most useful article in any shop. This cabinet 
is convenient not only for screws in gross boxes or paper 
sacks, but for small brads, double-pointed tacks, carpet 
tacks, small butt hinges, cupboard catches and other articles 
needed about a cabinet or woodworking shop. This cabinet 
is to be screwed or nailed to the wall in some convenient 
place. 

Material. 

(1) One piece 54"x8"x5'6" pine. 

(2) One piece %"xl0"xl2". 

(3) One piece i^"xl2"xST'. 

(4) One piece ;X"x3^"x6'6". 

A small hook, pair of 1^2" butt hinges, some glue, and a num- 
ber of 7d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. The pupil will make his bill of stock by 
referring to the drawing. 

Tools. Saws, plane, rabbet plane, brace, f" bit, try- 
square, chisel, pencil, rule, screw-driver and hammer. 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



Directions. Saw and plane the different pieces to sizes 
indicated in the drawing. Board No. 1 in Hst of material 
will make pieces for the sides and door, and piece No. 2 
will make the bottom and top pieces. On the two side 
pieces at the back and on the inside, plow out a space one- 
half the thickness of the board and ^" deep. Lay off on 
these boards beginning at the bottom, a point 4" from the 
end and draw line across. Draw another line across V' 
farther in, another 3V', then V', and so on the length of the 
board. Saw and chisel out these grooves to the depth of 
I". The shelves fit into these grooves. Make the panel 
door to the dimensions given in the drawing. 

Assembly. Fit ^" shelves into side pieces and nail. Nail 
on the top and bottom pieces, and lastly the back piece. Put 
hinges and hook on the door. 



WORK BENCH. 

Purpose. Every farm needs, a shop and work-bench suit- 
able for carpentry, cabinet making, and all kinds of repair 
work. Three important points in its construction are that 
it be large, heavy, and strong. The height of the bench 
should conform to the height of the workman, and it 
should be twelve feet long, if possible, depending upon the 
size of the shop. It should be as wide as possible, and yet 
allow the men to reach the tools hanging on the wall above 
the bench, and it should be nailed to the wall to insure 
stability. Rough-sawed lumber from a common saw mill 
will do admirably for this bench. In fact the author has 
seen old bridge planks, and sills from an old house made 
into good benches. This element of economy should not be 
overlooked when trees and lumber are growing more scarce 
every day. 



Material, 

Four pieces 1^4"xl0"xl2' oak or hard pine. 

One piece 2"x4"xl4'6". 

One piece ^8"xl0"xl0'. 

One piece i/4"xl2"x4'. 

One piece 3"x4"x2'5i/$". 

One 1%" vise screw. 

A number of lOd., 20d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) Four pieces lM"xlO"xl2' for top. 

(2) Four pieces 2"x4"x2'4/2" for legs. 

(3) Two pieces 2"x4"x2'4j4" for cross pieces. 

(4) One piece %"xl0"x2'4}4" brace for legs at vise end. 

(5) One piece %"x2"x2'7" for vise brace. 

(6) Two pieces 7/^"x2"x2'H" for vise brace. 

(7) One piece %"x254"x20" for vise parts. 

(8) One piece 3"x4"x2'Sy2" for vise head. 

The bill of stock for the drawer may be made by the pupil. 
One J4" oak pin 3" long. 
Two 1/2" oak pegs, 4" long. 

Tools. Saws, planes, hammer, square, T-bevel, try- 
square, rule, pencil, gage, brace, and f", Y', f", and ex- 
tension bits. 

Directions and Assembly. Cut out legs and top cross- 
pieces. On the leg that is to be directly under the vise cut 
a thru mortise |" x 2^". Cut this 4-J" up from the lower 
end. This thru mortise is for piece marked A to slide 
through. Bore two ^" holes thru this leg in position shown 
in drawing. Cut out and nail at the upper end of this pair 
of legs piece D in drawing, and No. 4 in bill of stock. 
Mark out and cut the braces, Nos. 5 and 6 in bill of stock, 
and nail into position. These braces are used to support 
the vise, the other pair of legs being without braces. 

Nail plank marked B onto the legs, flush with the top. 
Lay first top plank even with plank B. Lay and nail the 
two remaining planks. 



Wo:^K Bench 

To Be Fasten ep To Wall 



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28 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



Bore holes in piece No. 7 in bill of stock, marked A in 
drawing. Bore these in line with holes in leg to insure 
proper fitting of wooden pins. 

Work piece No. 8, or vise head, to dimensions given in 
drawing. Use hard wood, preferably white oak, for this 
vise head. 

Make the thru mortise at the bottom. Slide end of piece 
A thru until flush with outside of vise head. Bore a f" hole 
in the center thru head and piece A, and fasten with a hard 
wood pin. Measure down 10" from the upper end of vise 
head and bore a Ig" hole for vise screw to slip thru. 

Fit vise head carefully into position and mark center for 
hole on piece B. Bore this hole thru piece B, and thru leg. 
Put on casting marked C in the drawing, and fit vise head 
into place. 

This completes the vise, unless vise handle is to be made. 
On another plate a full drawing for a vise handle is given. 
The vise is widened by shifting piece A and also turning 
the vise screw at the upper end. 

Bore -|-" holes on the sides for V' pegs to hold the longer 
pieces put into the vise. A convenient drawer may be put 
into the end of the bench for small tools. 

ROW OF NESTS FOR LAYING HENS. 

Purpose. This row of nests will be most convenient for 
every place where poultry is raised, whether in small or 
large flocks. The front is opened and the top is a hinged 
lid, convenient for gathering eggs. 



Material. 

One piece J^"xl4"xl2', pine or redwood. 

One piece %"xl4"xl0'. 

Three 1^2" butt hinges and a number of 8d. common nails 

Bill of Stock. The bill of stock has been left for the pupil 
to make out. 

Tools. Saw, plane, rule, steel square and hammer. 

Directions. Cut the 14" board into lengths for the top 
and bottom, front piece, and door. The other board will 
make the remaining pieces. 

Assembly. Nail the top and bottom pieces to the end 
pieces. Place and nail in back piece, then the division 
pieces. Nail on the 4" front piece, then put on hinges 
which hold the trap door on top. 

NEST FOR A SITTING HEN. 

Purpose. This nest is convenient in that it can be moved 
around easily, a thing necessary when the eggs are hatching. 
It is also easily cleaned. 

Material. 

One piece ^"xl2"x6'8". 

A number of 8d. comnion nails. 

Bill of Stock and Directions. The pupil will make his 
own bill of stock and outline of procedure. 





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30 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



COOPS FOR HENS AND CHICKENS. 

Purpose. Chicken coops are needed wherever chickens 
are raised. This problem will meet with approval in almost 
any shop. Much time was spent in getting the size which 
will be best for the hen and chickens, and most economical 
in lumber. 

A-Shaped Coop. 

Material. Cheap grade of pine or old lumber of any kind. 
One piece %"xl2'^xl0'. 
One piece %"xl2"x7'. 
Two laths or strips y2" xV/>" x2'6" . 
A number of 6d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. | 

(1) Four pieces J^"xl2"x2'6" for roof. 

(2) Two laths ^"xli^"x2'6" for roof. 

(3) One piece ^"xl2"x3' for lower back piece. 

(4) One piece ^"xl2"xl'6" for upper back piece. 

(5) One piece each of %"xli/^"x3', 2-6", I'll" and 1'4" for 

front strips. 

(6) One piece %"x6"x9" for upper front strip. 

(7) Four pieces %"x2j4"x2' for inner cross braces. 

Tools. Saws, plane, gage, rule, pencil, T-bevel, and ham- 
mer. 

Directions. SaAV the 10' board into four pieces 2'6" long. 
Set the T-bevel on the square at an angle of 1^" to 2". (See 
illustration, on Plate II.) Bevel the ends of the roof boards 
to the angle set on the T-bevel. Using the same angle saw 
the back boards mentioned in No. 3 and No. 4 in bill of 
stock. Also saw out and cut to slant No. 5 and No. 6. 
Pieces in No. 7 in bill of stock are used merely as nail ties 
to keep the coop from parting in the middle. 

Assembly. Nail the roof boards to the cross ties first. 
Fit the two parts together and nail at the top. Nail on the 
lower back piece, then the upper and lastly the front strips, 
using the measurements shown in the drawing. The laths 



are to keep rain from running thru the cracks between the 
two boards. Nail all pieces securely as the coop is likely 
to be moved often. 

Box Coop. 

Material. Same wood as in A-shaped coop. 
One piece J'^"xl2"xl4'. 
One piece %"x8"xl4'. ^ 
Two laths or strips !!-4"xl^"x3'. 
A number of 6d. and 8d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. The bill of stock may be made out by the 
pupil. Material may be saved by making piece A from the 
piece sawed ofif of the board just below it. 

Tools. Same as for A-shaped coop. 

Directions. The board J" x 12" x 14' will make the three 
roof boards and the lower board on each side. Saw these 
roof boards to proper lengths. The remaining pieces are 
made from the 8" board. A side may be made with the 12" 
board mentioned above and the 8" board. To do this lay 
the 12" board and 8" board together, measure up 14" from 
one end and 24" on the other. Connect these two points 
and saw the line. Piece A shown in the drawing may be 
made from the piece just sawed ofif. The back is made in 
two pieces as shown in the drawing. Rip out the front 
pieces. 

Assembly. Make the sides first. Nail the two nail ties, 
B and C, at the front to hold the three pieces together. Do 
not nail at the back as the back pieces will break joints. 
Nail the back boards to the sides, then nail on the front 
strips, spacing them to correspond to the figures in the 
drawing. To make the roof boards project over the ends 
somewhat and g-ive a good appearance, spread the roof 
boards -i'' when nailing them on. This 4" crack will be 
covered by the strips. Give the coop two good coats of 
paint. 



A -Shaped Coop For. Hen And Chickens 



Box Coop 



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32 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



WATERING TROUGH, CHICKEN FEEDER, OATS 

SPROUTER. 

Purpose. Much attention is now being given to the 
scientific raising of chickens. Conveniences are being added 
that work for the saving of labor and for the health and 
well being of the poultry. The watering trough is one of 
the articles that should be found in all yards. It must be 
small enough to move easily, and constructed in such a way 
as to be easily cleaned. 

The chicken feeder or hopper is an improvement that 
saves much labor and feed. The feeder designed in the 
drawing has two compartments, one for grit and the other 
for ground feed. One side of the roof is nailed on per- 
manently while the other is hinged so that the door may be 
raised and the stuflf put in. The feed and grit works down 
automatically as it is eaten by the chickens, thus saving the 
work of many feedings. 

This oats sprouter is designed for the purpose of keeping 
fresh green feed for the chickens all thru the winter. It is 
built as a stand which holds the trays of oats. ' The trays 
are nearly filled with oats which are well moistened. The 
sprouter is then set by the furnace or stove where it can 
get plenty of warmth and the sprouting oats are moistened 
each day. Under proper conditions these grow quickly, 
and a tray can be used each day, thus affording a daily 
supply of green feed. The sprouts should be from 4" to 
6" high before using. 



Material. 



Watering Trough. 



One piece 3/["x8"x7'10" pine. 

A number of 8d. common nails and some white lead. 

Bill of Stock. To be made out by the pupil. 

Tools. Saws, pencil, plane, try-square, rule and hammer. 



Directions. Lay out and finish all pieces as shown in the 
drawing. Take care to make good joints, planing the 
edges and ends at each joint. Before nailing put white lead 
in each joint. 



Chicken Feeder. 



Material. 



One piece >4"x]2"xl3' pine. 
One piece ^"xl0"x7'8". 
One piece 34"x8"xl0' 
One piece ^"x8"x8'. 

One pair Ij^" butt hinges, also a number of 6d. and 8d. com- 
mon nails. 

Bill of Stock. The list of materials given above will be 
ample to complete the problem. Careful thought will show 
how to put this feeder together with little waste of material. 

Tools. Saws, plane, square, try-square, gage and ham- 
mer. 

Directions. Make the ends first. Plane a good joint on 
an edge of two 8" pieces and put together with corrugated 
fasteners, using them in the ends as well as sides. Lay out 
the end as shown in the drawing. From the bottom mark 
up 3" and mark points on both edges, again 6" and draw 
lines across. Find center and put a point 3" to each side. 
Measure up 24" and mark points on both edges, then find 
middle of end. Connect all points and saw carefully to line. 
Mark the partition the same way. Make the bottom or 
floor of two 8" boards. The sides of the hopper are made 
of 12" and 10" boards. They need to be notched to fit where 
the piece extends down into the bottom of the hopper. One 
roof board may be left full 12" wide, while the other is cut 
to Hi". 

Assembly. Nail the bottom and then the 3" side pieces 
to the ends and middle partition. Nail on the sides. Nail 
on one side of the roof permanently. Put hinges on the 
other piece. 



\\^TEKING TkDUGH 



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34 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



Material. 



Oats Sprouter. 



One piece ?4"xl2"x9' pine. 

One piece i^"xl2"xl2'4". 

A number of 6d. and 8d. common nails. 

Before beginning this problem make out the bill of stock. 
There are twent3^-eight pieces with only five different 
dimensions. Lay out all the material before beginning to 
saw so as to be sure that you have figured correctly. 

CHICKEN CRATE. 

Purpose. This chicken crate is for use in hauling 
chickens to market, moving them from one place to another, 
or for shipping them by express. Expensive lumber is not 
needed, and boxes or crates can be used to advantage. 

Material. Almost any kind or width of lumber may be 
used. The floor should be solid, and a good set of boards 
at least 2\" wide should be used around the bottom. The 
sliding board is cut accurately while the remainder may be 
almost any width with spaces 2" or less between strips. 

Tools. Saw, hammer, rule, pencil, and chisel. 

General Directions. It is not necessary to make out an 
accvirate bill of stock, as only the lengths of the different 
pieces are required. Make the corner and middle posts 
first. Cut several pieces to the right length to make the 
ends, following as nearly as possible the widths shown in 
the drawing. Make the middle partition. Saw a number of 
pieces 4' long for the sides and nail these strips to the ends. 
Turn the frame upside down and nail on enough \" strips 
to cover the bottom. Saw and nail on the top strips' Chisel 
out a notch for the sliding center board. Nail on the tin 
strips at A, B, and C. When the crate is to be fastened 
permanently a small nail may be driven thru a tin strip and 
the sliding board. 



EGG TESTER. 

Purpose. This box is designed to aid in testing or 
candling eggs. It is nothing more than a box with a hole 
the size of an ^^^ in the front, a hole in the top for the 
smoke from a lamp to escape and a hinged door in front 
thru which the lamp may be admitted. An electric bulb 
may be used instead of a lamp. The tester is used in a dark 
room. Light the lamp and place it in the box and hold the 
egg over the opening in front. A little practice will soon 
enable the user to tell the condition of the eggs. 

Material. Pine. 

One piece 5//'x8"x5'8". 

One pair small butt hinges. 

A number of 6d. finishing nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

One piece i/,"x8"xl3" for back. 
Two pieces ^"x7"xl3" for sides. 
One piece ^"x8"x8" for bottom. 
One piece H"x4i/"x8" for top- 
One piece i/<"x8"xlli//' for door. 
One piece J^"x2%"x8" for front lower piece. 

Tools. Saws, plane, gage, rule, pencil, try-square, brace, 
extension bit, T-bevel and hammer. 

Directions. Saw and plane all pieces to dimensions. To 
shape the side pieces, measure up on one edge 24". Across 
the opposite end measure in Z\" from the corner. Connect 
these, and saAv and plane to the line. Set the T-bevel to this 
angle just made, and use it in planing the lower front piece, 
top, and upper end of door. Bore a \V' hole in the center of 
the top board. Bore another 1^" hole in the center of the 
door. 

Assembly. Nail the side to the back. Put on the lower 
front piece then the bottom and top. Lastly, put on the 
hinges. 



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36 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



SEED CORN TESTING TRAY. 

Purpose. The seed corn testing tray is one of the most 
needed and useful articles to be found any where on a farm 
growing corn in any quantity. The construction of the box 
is simple. Directions for using-are below. 

Material. Yellow pine or any comparatively light wood. 
One piece M"x8"xlO'. 

Two pieces of cheap muslin about 28" square. 
One piece black chalk. A number of Bd. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. The bill of stock will be made out by the 
pupil. 

Tools. Saws, plane, try-square, hammer, yard stick, and 
rule. 

Directions and Assembly. Cut all pieces to the dimen- 
sions shown in the drawing. Nail the sides and ends to- 
gether, and then nail on the bottom. Lay off on one piece 
of muslin as near as possible to the center, one hundred 
squares using the yard stick and black chalk in laying off 
and drawing the lines. Put the numbers of the rows to the 
outside as shown in the drawing. Fill the box about half 
full of sawdust pressing it down level all over the box. Lay 
the piece of muslin with the marked squares over the saw- 
dust in the box. Place your corn to be tested in rows of 
ten, or one hundred, so that you will know where each ear 
belongs. Select six grains from different parts of the ear. 
Lay these six grains in square No. 1, in two rows, pointing 



in the same direction. Repeat until all the squares are 
filled. Cover with the second piece of muslin and spread 
sawdust over this. Moisten well and keep in a warm place 
four or five days, then remove the top cloth and take note 
of the experiment. Supposing the grain or grains of ear 
No. 41 failed to sprout, discard that ear from the row you are 
testing. Discard also the ears that have weak sprouted 
grains, or those that have only part of the grain sprouted. 
The ears of corn left in the row are to be used as seed. 



FRAME FOR THE SEED CORN TESTING TRAYS. 

Purpose. This frame makes a convenient place to keep 
the testing trays while testing corn and it also affords a 
place to keep them from one year to another. This frame 
will support six trays. Six trays will be enough for almost 
any sized farm. Allowing one hundred ears to the bushel, 
six bushels can be tested at a time. 

Material. Yellow pine or any cheap wood. 
One piece 2"x4"x7'. 
One piece J4"x6Jxl2'. 
One piece %"x6"x8'. 
A number of 8d. common nails. 

Directions and Assembly. This problem is so simple that 
almost a glance will show the sizes of pieces, and construc- 
tion. When assembling the frame, you will find it easier to 
nail together the braces and pieces for the trays to slide on 
before nailing them to the posts. 





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38 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



CORN TRAY FOR EXHIBITION PURPOSES. 

Purpose. Corn shows usually have three groups, the best 
single ear, the best ten ears, and the best fifty ears. Most 
men usually enter their corn in the ten ear group. It is for 
this group that this tray has been designed. Nearly every 
little town and many larger towns in farming districts have 
their corn shows. The teacher of manual training will have 
little trouble in getting the Commercial Club of the town to 
furnish the lumber with which to make the trays, which can 
be stored and used year after year. This will make a good 
class problem, each making one or several trays, or the in- 
structor may employ the factory method, allowing the boy to 
make one or two parts until he is proficient in that part. 
As a rule the boy who raises corn will want a tray of his 
own to keep at his home. 

Material. White pine. 

One piece i4"xl2"x2'2". 

One piece ^"x2i/^"x2'2". 

Two pieces 54"x2i/^"xl3". 

One piece half round moulding i/2"x8'6". 

A number of 6d. finishing nails and %" brads. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) One piece 3<"xlli/^"x2'P/4" for bottom. 

(2) Two pieces 34"x2i^"xl2" for sides. 

(3) One piece V^" xl]//' x2' VA" for back. 

(4) Nine pieces half round ^"xll'4"- 

Tools. Saws, planes, plow, try-square, rule, pencil, gage, 
and hammer. 

Directions. Put a #" blade in the plow and set it to cut 
I" deep. Plow out a groove in the bottom piece leaving a 



strip -I" wide between the edge and the groove. After the 
pieces mentioned in Nos. 2 and 3 in bill of stock have been 
planed to dimensions, a groove V' wide and |" deep is 
plowed along one edge leaving ^" between the edge and the 
groove. Lay out the joint as shown in the detail. Take 
notice that the grooves on the end pieces should face each 
other, and they must fit the groove in the back piece. 

Assembly. Nail a side and back piece together. Fit in the 
bottom board and then fit the opposite side piece, being sure 
that all joints fit before nailing permanently. Saw the half 
round to proper lengths, space them equally and nail with 
small brads. 



CRATES FOR CORN IN EAR. 

Purpose. This crate is made especially for handling seed 
corn although it can be used for ear corn generally. 



Material. Rough sawed lumber of almost any light wood, 
ating lumbe 
common nails. 



crating lumber being most economical. A number of 6d. 



Tools. Saws, gage, square, rule, pencil" and hammer. 

Directions and Assembly. Rip out all pieces and saw to 
correct dimensions as shown in drawing. Nail the end 
pieces to the. upright pieces, spacing as nearly equally as 
possible, and using five pieces to the end. Nail on the bot- 
tom, putting on six pieces and lastly, the ten side pieces 
using five to each side, 



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40 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



SEED CORN RACK. 

Purpose. This seed corn rack is the most convenient, the 
most practical, and the cheapest rack that can be constructed. 
It is coming to be a potent factor of farm equipment. Our 
up-to-date farmers have learned the need of keeping seed 
corn high and dry, and so arranged that air can circulate free- 
ly around each ear. In this rack the corn ears are laid on 
the Vi^ire shelves, the ends projecting on each side. The 
height and width of the rack may be varied according to 
the individual needs. As given here the rack holds about 
twenty bushels of corn, and the cost of construction is 
comparatively very low. 

Material. 

Three pieces 2"x4"xl0' 
Seven pieces 2"x4"x8'. 

750 ft. No. 12 gage wire and a number of lOd. and 20d. com- 
mon nails, also a number of staples. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) Two pieces 2"x4"xl0' for upper and lower pieces. 

(2) Four pieces 2"x4"x8' for double ends. 

(3) One piece 2"x4"x7'8i/^" for middle upright. 

(4) Two pieces 2"x4"x4'll>8" for middle lengthwise braces. 

(5) Four pieces 2"x4"x4' for corner braces. 



Tools. Saws, square, rule, pencil, T-bevel, hammer and 
pliers. 

Directions. Measure and cut Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, mentioned in 
the bill of stock. Miter the brace, using 10" on one arm of 
the framing square, and 12" on the other to get one angle. 
Reverse this to get angle at other end. 

Assembly. Lay on the floor the two 10' pieces ; nail one 
8' piece at each end. Put in the middle upright piece, then 
the two cross braces. Nail on the extra 8' pieces at the 
ends. Put in the mitered braces. The most difficult step 
in making this rack is to get the wires evenly stretched. 
Stand the rack upright on the floor and nail temporarily, 
adding other braces in such a way that they will give 
stability and at the same time be out of the way as much 
as possible. Mark off distance between wires at each end. 
Two men will be required to do the work. Unroll the 
wire only as needed. At one end put in enough staples to 
hold firmly, bending over the wire as an extra precaution. 
One person, by using a large pair of pliers and bracing him- 
self against the rack, can stretch the wires tightly while 
the other person puts in the staples. When the work gets 
too high to reach easily, turn over the rack and work down- 
ward. 



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42 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



CABINET FOR SEEDS AND SMALL GRAIN. 

Purpose. Farmers have always been at a disadvantage 
in storing for another season's planting, the seeds and small 
grain that they wish to keep. They have been stored in 
sacks and paper bags, and hung from the ceiling_ in the 
barns and attics, only to suffer from rats and mice and 
weather conditions. Or they are sometimes hung in the 
kitchen, proving a dust catch and a source of much care. 
This seed cabinet will care for all the seeds and small grains 
for the farm and garden, keeping them dry and safe from 
mice and rats. The metal used in each section does not 
absorb or give ofif moisture. This cabinet can be used in 
schools where agriculture is taught. If a larger cabinet is 
desired, it can be made higher or longer, and more sections 
added. Each drawer will conveniently hold two-thirds of 
a peck. 

Material. 

One piece ?4"xl2''xlO;. 

Two pieces J4"^8"xl2'. 

One piece %"x8"xl0'. 

One piece J4"xl0"xl0'. 

One piece 54"xlO"xl4'. 

One piece ^"x8"xl8'. 

Twenty-five pieces No. 28 gage galvanized iron 15"xl7", also 

a number of 6d. and 8d. finishing nails and small sized 

shingle nails. (Not galvanized.) 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

One piece M"xl7"x4'4^" for top. 

Two pieces 3^"xl5i4"x2'6M" for sides. 

One piece i/^"x2'6->4"x4'l?4" for back. 

One piece J4"x2"x3'll^" for horizontal casing. 

Five pieces J4"xl^"x3'll^" for horizontal casings. 

Two pieces ?-:^"xl^"x2'6?4" for vertical casings. 

Twenty pieces %"x2j4"xl4^" for drawer runners. 



Forty pieces %"xlj^"xl4%," for drawer runners. 
Ten pieces M"x%:"xl4J4" for drawer runners. 
Twenty pieces J4"x1J^"x4J4" for vertical casings. 
Twenty-five pieces 54"x5"x9'/2" for drawer fronts. 
Twenty-five pieces ^2"x4"x8" for rear of drawers. 
Sixteen pieces •}4"x2"x4}4" for frame at F in drawing. 
Four pieces ?4"x2"x2%" for frame at G in drawing. 

Tools. Saws, planes, hammer, square, try-square, rule, 
pencil, mallet, plow, chisel and nailset. 

Directions. Get out stock for ends and top, and glue them 
together. Finish to dimensions given in the drawing. 
Plow out insides of end pieces at back as shown in detail of 
corner in drawing. Cut to dimensions all pieces called for 
in bill of stock, making the larger pieces first, as in this 
case nearly any small piece may be used. With the plow, 
saw and chisel cut the face of all the drawers. Round up 
outside edges with plane. Bend galvanized iron as shown 
in detail of drawing. This ^" lap makes a stiifer drawer 
and at the same time rounds the edge so that it will not cut 
the hands. Put in the \" x 4" x 8" piece of wood and nail 
the three pieces together. Nail the various drawer runners 
together as shown at A, B, C. 

Assembly. Lay off and nail on A, B, etc. on the inside of 
both ends. Nail in the half-inch boards at the back. Put 
on lower 2" casing, and fit and nail in drawer runners 
marked D in drawing. Toe-nail pieces marked F, to D, etc. 
Now you are ready for a new addition to the frame. Nail 
on to the ends as at B, the horizontal casing marked H. 
Now nail in C, etc., at both front and back. Proceed as 
before until all have been put in. Put on the top. The 
drawer openings are made large so that the drawer opens 
easily v/ithout handles. 






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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



SEED CORN SLED. 

Purpose. Years ago, before much attention was given to 
the selection of seed corn, it was a common practice for the 
farmer to go to his corn crib at planting time and pick out 
what he considered his best ears of corn. A better practice 
was to select the best ears of corn as it was husked. Agri- 
culturists having since given the problem considerable 
thought and experiment, have proved this to be a very poor 
method. In selecting the best seed corn it is necessary to 
know not only the size and shape of the ear, and the kind of 
grains on the ear, but also the height and thickness of the 
stalk, its color and appearance as to sturdiness, the hang 
of the ear, and the amount of husks covering the ear. They 
have also found that the best seed corn is picked early, be- 
fore the regular time for husking. This necessitates going 
thru the rows of corn without injuring the rows. The 
narrow seed corn sled in the drawnig is designed for that 
purpose, and it has proved to be a success. One horse is 
hitched to the sled and it is dragged thru the rows of corn, 
as the ears of corn are husked and thrown into the sled. 
When the sled is filled and hauled to the barn the side door 
is unloosed and the sled tipped over to empty the contents. 
These ears of corn are the choice ears of the field, but they 
need to be given the regular seed corn test before planting. 
It is not necessary to make this sled of new material, and m 
fact for economy s sake, it is better to use old lumber. If 
the lumber you have on hand does not conform to these di- 
mensions, make your own measurements, merely using 
this as a guide. 

Material. Yellow pine. 
One piece 2"x8"xl4'6". 
Three pieces 2"x4"x8'. 
Five pieces %"x6"xl4'. 
One piece J4"x6"xl6'. 
One pair T-hinges and screws. 
Two hooks or hasps with staples. 
Six feet of }i" round Norway iron. 



One 2j4" iron ring made from J4" stock. 

A number of 20d., 8d., and 6d. common nails; 

Bill of Stock. The pupil should make out his own bill of 
stock. As this is generally made of old and uneven mate- 
rial, it will give the workman a chance to use his ingenuity 
in working in odd pieces. It is not necessary that these 
exact dimensions be used if it will suit the workman's 
convenience to use other measurements. 

Tools. Saws, plane, chisel, square, try-square, rule, pen- 
cil, brace, -|" bit, screw-driver and hammer. 

Directions. Saw out the two runners to lengths given in 
the drawing. Measure back 7" on one edge at one end; 
draw a line to opposite corner and saw to line. At the op- 
posite end measure in 3" and then 3^", and saw down If" 
enough to let a piece of studding come flush with the sur- 
face. Lay out, saw and chisel the three other notches. 
Bore a Y' hole in the front end at about the position shown 
in the drawing. Saw and cut to dimensions all other pieces. 

Assembly. Nail in, with 20d. common nails, the pieces of 
studding which fit into the notches and form the cross ties 
of the sled. Using any width of boards, place and nail onto 
this framework the floor, filling out the 6'6" length of the 
floor of the sled. Nail together the pieces of studding 
marked A and B in the drawing. Nail these frames to the 
floor, placing one ^" from each end to allow for the end 
boards. Nail on the end pieces, and then the back. Nail 
on the strip above the door, and screw on the hinges. 
Make the door, being sure that the end strips come over 
the end frames and in position to be used for the hinges. 
The third strip is put on in the middle. The door is held 
at the bottom by bent hooks or hasps as shown in the draw- 
ing. In the forge shop make a 2^" ring from ^" stock. 
Slip the rod mentioned in the list of materials thru the holes 
already in the runners and bend it around. Place the ring 
in the center and bend over the rod enough to keep it from 
slipping when the sled is heavily loaded. 



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45 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



BIRD HOUSES. 

Purpose. Every agricultural department of every 
state, most farmers, and in general most people, are begin- 
ning to understand that birds are a great asset to tlie coun- 
try, not only for their economic value, but for their beautiful 
plumage and songs. They are interesting to study because 
of their home life, their habits, and almost human intelli- 
gence in making their nests and providing for and teaching 
their young. The forests and trees, prairies, marshes, and 
natural meadows that in the early times were the natural 
nesting places for birds are being taken from them. The 
marshes are being drained, prairies farmed, the grass from 
meadows is being cut or grazed, forests are being cut down, 
thus driving out the birds to the extent that some kinds are 
becoming extinct. It is to give some of our best birds a 
nesting pake that so many people are taking it upon them- 
selves to build homes for them. In the elementary grades 
will be found boys who can give time to making several bird 
nests during manual training periods, and they would soon 
dot the country over with homes for the birds. On the plate 
here shown are four houses, one designed for a chickadee, 
one for a tree swallow, another for two families of house 
wrens, and a fourth for a colony of martins. The chickadee 
house should be placed 6 to 15 feet from the ground, tree 
swallow house 10 to 15 feet, house wren 6 to 10 feet, and 
martin 15 to 20 feet. 

CHICKADEE HOUSE. 
Material. 

One piece H" x 12" x 3'. 

A number of 1^" finishing nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece V2" x 5" x W-A" for back. 
One piece Vz" x 7" x 5^" for top. 
Two pieces H" x 4" x WVz" for sides. 



One piece J4" x 5" x lOj^" for front. 
One piece Vi" x 5" x 6" for bottom. 

Tools. Saws, plane, T-bevel, try-square, hammer, brace, 
extension bit, rule, and pencil. 

Directions. Saw the boards to dimensions given in the 
bill of stock. Set T-bevel on the square at an agle of \\" to 



44 



as 



shown in illustration in Plate II. Use this same 



aiigle for cutting front, sides, and roof. Plane down the 
front piece to 10" plus the angle on the T-bevel. Use this 
longer measurement for making the point on the side pieces. 
From these points on the side pieces extend the lines at 
angle of T-bevel. Saw and plane to this line giving slant 
for roof. Cut back end of roof at same angle reversed. Bore 
1^" hole in the center of the front 8" up from the lower end. 
Assembly. Nail front piece to sides. Nail back piece, 
then floor and roof. 



TREE SWALLOW HOUSE. 



Material. 



One piece J/^" x 6' x 3'4". 

A number of \Y\" finishing nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece >4" x 6" x 11" for back. 
.One piece Vi" x 6" x 7>4" for front. 
Two pieces J4" x 5" x (y%," for sides. 
One piece Vz" x 6" x 6^" for bottom. 
Two pieces V2" x 5" x 6M" for roof. 

Tools. Same as for chickadee house. 

Directions. Cut from the board mentioned in list of 
material all pieces mentioned in bill of stock. Set T-bevel 
at an angle on the square of \\" to 3". Use this same angle 
for all pieces. To make back piece, measure up from one 
end of board 9i". Mark a point on each edge of the board. 
Set T-bevel to these points and draw lines giving the roof 



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48 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



slant. Cut to these lines. Make front piece in same manner 
except that points are marked only 6" high. Set extension 
bit to 1^" diameter and bore hole in center of front piece 
4" from lower end. For side pieces measure 6" from ends, 
set T-bevel, mark slant, draw lines around pieces, saw to 
lines, and plane. Bevel one edge of each roof piece. Plane 
pieces to desired width. The length from ridge to eaves is 
W- 

Assembly. Nail front pieces to sides. Nail back, then 
floor, then roof pieces. 

HOUSE WREN. 

The pupil may make out his own list of materials, bill of 
stock, list of tools needed, and line of procedure. If any 
question arises the pervious problems may be referred to. 



Material. 



MARTIN HOUSE. 



One piece H" x 12" x 7'. 
One piece i^" x 8" x 47". 
One piece V2" x 6" x 2'. 

Bill of Stock. A full set of dimensions is given in the 
drawing so that the pupil may easily work out his own bill 
of stock. 

Tools. Same as in previous problems. 

Directions. Cut material up into pieces shown in drawing. 
Set T-bevel on the square to an angle of, 3" to 6". (See 
illustration Plate II, and use this same angle for all pieces.) 

For the two fronts, measure l\V' from end, and mark a 
point on each edge of the board. Draw lines giving roof 
pitch. Saw and plane to lines. To locate center point for 
openings, draAv lines, one 2y' and one Sf" from the lower 
edge. Measure in Z" from the edge on each of these lines. 



On these points bore 2V' holes. Bevel side pieces to 11'' 
plus angle on the bevel. To make the central partition fit 
into roof ridge, bevel edges to the angle given. Bevel roof 
pieces at the same angle. 

Assembly. Nail front pieces to sides ; then nail on first 
floor. Nail in partition boards as follows : lower lengthwise 
partition, two cross partitions, second floor, upper length- 
wise partition, upper cross partitions, and finally the roof 
pieces. 

FRAME FOR HAMMOCK. 

Purpose. This convenient frame makes it possible to 
hang the hammock in any shady spot in the yard, on the 
porch or on the porch roof, without the necessity of setting 
posts or using trees. In smaller proportions this hammock 
frame is most convenient to use in the house, for a baby's 
or a small child's bed, or swinging hammock. 

Material. Yellow pine or hemlock. 
Three pieces 2"x4"xl2'. 
One piece 4"x4"xl2'. 
One piece 3^"x4"xl6'. 

Bill of Stock. The bill of stock may be made out by the 
pupil. Material may be saved by carefully laying out and 
sawing joints so that the same sawing in some cases will 
make the ends for two pieces. 

Tools. Saw, plane, square, pencil and hammer. 

Directions. Saw all pieces to the lengths shown in the 
drawing. Miter the lower braces at an angle of 45°. the 
long side being 2' 10" long. In marking out the angle of the 
upper braces use 7" on one arm of the square and 12" on 
the other, and the reverse to get the angle at the opposite 
end ; the longest edge is 3' 8". 

















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50 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



Assembly. Nail the 2x4's forming the base of the frame 
to the _4x4's forming the uprights with 16d. nails. Place 
and nail the 2x4's forming the braces to the uprights with 
lOd. nails. Nail on the horizontal beam with 16d. nails, and 
lastly the four upper braces with 8d. nails. 

GATES. 

Purpose. A farm gate, garden or yard gate affords an 
excellent problem for the pupil, and a most useful article 
after it is made. The large gate is designed especially for 
the farm and it is wide enough to allow the largest load 
of hay to pass through easily. 



Material. Pine. 



Gate No. 1. 



Seven pieces 3^"x6"xl6'. 

Six pieces H"x6"xU'. 

Six dozen 25^" bolts A" in diameter. 

One pair wrought steel strap hinges with bolts and screw 

borne 8d. common nails. 

BiU of Stock. The pupil will find it to his advantage to 
make out his own bill of stock. Directions for measuring 
and sawmg the braces will be given below. 

Tools. Saws, plane, square, rule, pencil, brace, /'' and 
V bits, and hammer. 

Directions and Assembling. Saw the long pieces, end 
and middle pieces to dimensions. Lay down 'three upright 
pieces, and pkce on these the long strips spaced to dimen- 
sions shown m the end view of the drawing. Drive in a 
nail at each joint to hold the boards in place,^and then bore 
the holes and put in the bolts. You are now ready to saw 
the braces. Take actual measurements on the individual 
boards m each case so as to insure good joints. The kind 



shown in the drawing will serve as a good type, as it gives 
plenty of room for the bolts in each case. As you cut out a 
brace fasten it on with small nails. When the braces for 
both sides have been put on bore the holes and bolt as 
before. With short ends that have been left over, splice 
out the boards under the hinges and nail securely and then 
bolt on the hinges. 



Material. Pine. 



Gate No. 2. 



One piece 2"x4"xl0'. 
One piece ?^"xl2"x8'4". 
A number of 8d. nails. 

Bill of Stock. To be made by the pupil. 

Tools. Saws, plane, spokeshave, try-square, rule, com- 
pass, pencil, and hammer. 

_ Directions. Cut cross ties and pickets to dimensions 
given in the drawing. To shape the pickets set the compass 
to 2f", measure down 2V' from the top end of each picket, 
and with the try-square draw a line across. Using each end 
of this. line as a center describe arcs. With saw and spoke- 
shave shape down to the lines. 

Assembly. Place the two cross ties on the floor the 
proper distance apart. Place on these the pickets, properly 
spaced, and nail. To make brace take actual measurement 
from the gate. Saw out and nail. 

Gate No. 3. 

Gate No. 3 is identical with Gate No. 2, the height,, 
width and^ general dimensions being the same. The only 
difference is in the design of th? picket which may easily be 
worked out by the student. 













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52 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



FLIGHT OF STEPS. 

Purpose. A good solid flight of steps is often needed in 
many places about the home. This flight is easy of con- 
struction, and by changing the measurements it can be made 
to fit any definite place or purpose. 

Material. 

Two pieces 2"xl0"xl0' pine. 

One piece 7/^"xl0"x8'. 

One piece %"x8"xl4'. 

One piece %"x6"xl4'. 

One piece ?^"x6"x8'. 

One piece 4" ceiling 8' long. 

A number of 16d. and 8d. common nails, also 6d. casing nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) Four pieces 2"xlO"x5' for treads. 

(2) Two pieces %"xlO"x3'9" for carriage. 

(3) Three pieces %"x7i/^"x4'8" for risers. 

(4) One piece %"x5i-^"x4'8" for bottom riser. 

(5) Two pieces ?^"xSj^"xl7" for outside braces. 

(6) Two pieces ?^"x5i/^"x2'3'/4" for outside lower braces. 

(7) Two pieces %"x5i^"x2'4" for inside upper braces. 

(8) Two pieces ^"xS"x2'4" for inside lower braces. 

(9) Ten pieces ceiling, two of each as follows: 14", 11", 9", 

6", and 4". 



Tools. Saws, planes, square, try-square, T-bevel, and 
hammer. 

Directions. Saw to dimensions all pieces mentioned in 
the bill of stock. Round off treads ^" on the corners as 
shown in the drawing. Lay out and saw boards No. 2 in the 
bill of stock. To mark the carriage use the large square 
at an angle of 7\" by 9". The height of each riser is the 
same, but the first one must be cut 2" narrower, or the 
thickness of the tread. Mark off the slant on the back and 
lower outside braces to fit the carriage, or support for the 
treads and risers. Saw the pieces of ceiling to the lengths 
given in the bill of stock. The inner braces may be any 
suitable width and of old material. 

Assembly. Nail the back and lower inside braces to the 
carriage. Now nail on the outer braces flush with the piece 
supporting the treads. Nail on the pieces of ceiling begin- 
ning with the longest pieces at the back and working toward 
the'front. When both ends have been completed put on the 
risers. Lastly put on the treads. 







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54 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



SAW BUCK. 

Purpose. An excellent article which, with a good saw 
and a few sticks of wood, will bring sweat to the brow and 
good red blood into the viens. The height of the buck may 
be changed to suit the height of the workman. To find the 
correct height, place an ordinary stick of cord wood on 
some elevation, take a good sawing position with the knee 
on the stick. A few trials will give the correct height. 
Strength and stability are two other requirements. 

Material. 

One piece I?4"x3i^"x9'8". 
One piece Ii4"xli4"xl8%". 
One piece ?-^"xl2-xl8". 
A number of 8d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

Four pieces l34"x3i/<"x2'S" for legs. 
One piece I%"xli4"xl8^" for cylinder. 
Three pieces %"x2"xl754" for braces. 
One piece %"x3"xl7?4" for brace. 

Tools. Saws, plane, brace, H'', bit or extension bit set to 
ly diameter, chisel, hammer, T-bevel, try-square, rule and 
knife. 

Directions. Set T-bevel to an angle of 13-|" x 111" on the 
square. (See illustration, Plate II.) Mark off and cut the 
four legs. Measure down 11-J" from the upper end of each 
leg and bore holes. Lay two legs down on bench, the 
holes in direct line, spread bottoms until 22^" apart at outer 
edges and mark the joints with a knife. Cut these joints 
down y deep. Work the other two legs in same manner. 
Round up 1^" square stick to diameter of IJ". Cut other 
pieces to dimensions given in bill of stock. 



under round piece to fit, and nail, 
from floor some distance and nail. 



Put on lower brace up 



Assembly. Fit legs together and nail. Pitt in round ^ _ „ 

piece connecting the two pairs of legs. Bevel pieces directly front view of the drawing. A forked stick may be used 



RABBIT TRAP. 

Purpose. The happiest time in a boys life is during those 
years when he lives closest to nature, tramping thru the 
woods, hunting, fishing, trapping, and having a good time 
generally. There are many rabbit traps, but the author has 
found this to be the best trap made. The small isometric 
sketch shows the trap set. It is baited with corn, cabbage, 
or apple, the bait being placed behind the notched stick or 
trigger. In getting the bait the rabbit must touch the trig- 
ger which releases the door and lets it fall down behind the 
rabbit. Most boys know where to set the trap, in the 
orchard, garden, berry patch or thicket. 

Material. 

One piece ^"x6"x8'8" pine. 

One dowel or straight stick m' diameter and 25" long. 
A number of 8d. common nails, 1^" finishing nails, some stout 
cord, and a screw eye. 

Bill of Stock. The boy will find it best to make out his 
own bill of stock and in this way may be: able to change 
the dimensions somewhat in order to make it conform 
better with the material he may have in hand.' 

Tools. Saws, plane, hammer, brace, Y' bit, spokeshave, 
knife, try-square and rule. 

Directions. Cut the pieces to dimensions given in draw- 
ing from the 6" board. On the 20-]:" piece lay oflf and bore 
in the center of the board the two V' holes 4^" and \2Y' 
from the end. With the spokeshave or knife cut down piece 
A, the support for door and trigger, so that it will fit the 
i" hole. Also saw down f" V-shape notch shown in the 



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56 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



instead of A. Cut a notch in the upper end of the trigger 
to hold the string. Also where the trigger passes thru the 
-|-" hole, cut a notch straight into the stick, then slanting 
upward allowing plenty of room for play of the trigger. 
This notch resembles the notch in a boy's willow whistle, 
except that the longer cut is much elongated. 

Assembly. Nail on small cleats to side boards to form 
slide for door. Nail on bottom piece, then the end piece. 
Place and nail on top, being careful that the holes are 
toward the back. Fit door so that it slides into place easily. 
Put the screw eye in the middle of the top edge of door. 
Put in upright piece that supports the dowel attached to 
door and trigger. With stout cord tie trigger and door to 
dowel. Adjust so that when the trap is set the door is 
raised to proper height. 

PORCH SWING. 

Purpose. The luxury of a well proportioned and roomy 
porch swing need scarcely be spoken of. This swing is long 
enough to accommodate four people. It is also wide, making 
it useful for a lounging place. An excellent pad for the 
seat may be made by folding an old comfort to the desired 
size and covering it with burlap, tufting at intervals to 
prevent bunching of the comfort. 

Material. 

One piece I^"x35^"xl4' oak or yellow pine. 

One piece l34"xlM"x6'2". 

One piece ^8"x8"xl2'. 

One piece %"xl0"x8'. 

One piece %"x5"xl7j4". 

Eight ^"x4" bolts. 

A number of screws or finishing nails. 



Bill of Stock. By studying the drawing carefully the 
pupil can make out his own bill of stock. 

Tools. Saws, planes, hammer, rule, square, try-square, 
gage, pencil, brace, f" bit, chisel, screw-driver, T-bevel and 
wrench. 

Directions. Work the piece If" x 3Y'x 14' into the two 
long bottom pieces ; bore the holes, and bevel the ends. Saw 
the If" x If" piece into the four legs. The longer pieces 
are to be beveled off at the lower ends. Mark two sides 
that are especially good and use these for the joint sides, or 
the sides in which you put the mortises. Lay off and make 
mortises from measurements given in drawing. Make the 
mortises in each of the front legs. Make all mortises and 
tenons for the back pieces. Lay out these pieces with the 
same operation to avoid setting of the tools so often. Saw 
and plane edges of pieces for bottom. Model the arms in 
the manner shown in the detail. 

Assembly. Fit all pieces together before gluing to avoid 
errors. Glue the back support pieces together. Fit the ends 
together and glue. Glue the ends to the back support. (The 
above processes may be done at the same time if enough 
clamps are available, but it is not advisable.) Holes have 
already been bored in the lower supports. Place these 
pieces in position and with a punch, or pencil, mark the 
places for holes in the legs. Bore these holes and put in 
the bolts. Nail on the boards for the seat with finishing 
nails, setting the heads a little below the surface. The 
arms should be put on either with screws or dowels. 



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58 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



DOG HOUSE. 

Purpose. An attractive well-built dog house adds much 
to the appearance of the premises, and to the comfort of 
the animals. To the boy who likes dogs, this problem wdl 
appeal strongly. The large amount of house construction m 
the problem will make it a very profitable one to the student. 

Material. Yellow pine framing, redwood shingles and 

siding. 

. Two pieces 2"x4"xl6' studding. 
One piece Z"x4"xl8' studding. 
Three pieces M"x6"xl6' sheathing No. 3 com. 
Four pieces %"x6"xl4' sheathing No. 3 com. 
One piece M"x4"x5'. 
One piece M"x8"xl2' No. 1 finishmg. 
One piece M"x8"xl0' No. 1 finishing. 
Seven pieces ^A" siding 16' long. 
One-half bunch shingles. 
An assortment of nails. 

Bill of Stock. This project differs considerably from the 
ones preceding in that it is not usual to cut all pieces before 
beginning work, but to cut and assemble at the same time. 
With the drawing before the pupil it will be an easy matter 
to make out the sizes of pieces as the building proceeds. 

Tools. Saws, planes, rule, square, try-square, gage, cop- 
ing saw and hammer. 

Directions and Assembly. First make the frame which is 
made of studding. Saw the studding to dimensions and nail 
together with 16d. common nails. Toe-nail the cross pieces 
between the studding at the bottom. At one end nail in 



the frame for the opening. Saw and nail the sheathing on 
the sides. Lay out and saw the rafters. The roof angle is 
45°, or a so called half pitch. This means that even numbers 
will be taken when using the square. You will notice on 
the drawing that 1" is left where the rafter fits over the 
plate or corner of the frame. With a pencil-gage, draw a 
line \" from the edge the entire length of the rafter. Use 
this line now in laying out the rafter. Using this line as a 
basis and 15|" on each arm of the square, draw lines, thus 
getting the upper cut and the one that rests on the plate. 
At the point where this line crosses the \" line drop a second 
line at right angles to it. Measure out 3" and draw a line 
parallel to the last line drawn. Cut ofif the lower end of the 
rafter as shown in the drawing. Saw out this rafter care- 
fully and use it as a pattern in laying out the remainder of 
the rafters. When all rafters are cut nail them on, one pair 
flush with each end of the frame and one pair in the middle. 
Saw out and nail the sheathing on the ends. Saw andnail 
on the roof boards. Make the corner casings to dimensions, 
and nail at each corner ; likewise the casings for the opening. 
The two outer door casings are curved at the top to conform 
to the radii shown in the drawing. Saw, fit and nail on the 
siding, 3i" siding being used. Lap \" at each joint. Lay 
out, saw, and nail on the gable casings. (Note the design 
shown in the end view of the drawing.) The casing is 
nailed to the ends of the roof boards. Saw out the casings 
for the eaves and bevel one edge on each piece so that it will 
fit up under lower roof board. Put on the shingles allowing 
A\" to the weather. Lastly nail on the saddle boards. Put 
on two good coats of paint to match the farm buildings. 



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60 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



BREAD CUTTING BOARD. 

Purpose. This cutting board is a very good problem for 
beginners, and it is an article that will prove very useful 
after it is made. 

Material. 

One piece %"x8j4"xl6H" pine. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece M.''x8"xl6". 

Tools. Plane, chisel, try-square, rule, pencil and compass. 

Directions. Plane a face side and joint edge. Lay off and 
plane the piece to 8" wide. Set the gage to f ", and gage for 
thickness. Plane to middle of gage lines. Measure off the 
piece to 16" in length, but do not finish the ends. Set the 
compass to a 4" radius. Draw a center line lengthwise. 
Measure back 4" from each end on the center line, and using 
these points as centers, describe semi-circles. Saw off cor- 
ners fairly close to lines. Chisel carefully to lines, and 
sandpaper. 

SWING BOARD. 

Purpose. This board is constructed so that it is reason- 
ably safe and will not slip out of the swing, or slide between 
the ropes. It is an excellent problem for beginners. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece r8"xS"x22". 

Tools. Saw, plane, try-square, rule, pencil, brace, J" bit, 
and gage. 

Directions. Lay out the holes and notches at the ends. 
Bore the holes from each side so as to make a smooth sur- 
face on both sides. Saw out the triangular pieces using a rip 
saw. Saw on the lines with care as the surface is to be left 



just as sawed. Notice that the V-shaped opening is formed 
so that the rope slips thru a space narrower than the diam- 
eter of the hole. 

BENCH. 

Purpose. This bench, altho a homely appearing article, 
will be a joy to the mother of the boy who makes it. It is 
light and easily moved, and can be used for so many pur- 
poses. Two tubs sit easily on the bench on wash day. Placed 
out doors in the shade, it makes a fine bench for use in 
preparing vegetables, and many things for the table. It 
also furnishes a fine wash bench for the men on the farm 
who like so to splash water, and it will be found most useful 
about the barn. 

Material. 

One piece %"xl4"x4' pine. 

One piece ^^xlOJx.riO". 

One piece -)4"xl2"x3'. 

Twenty IVz" No. 9 flat heat screws. 

Bill of Stock. To be made out by the pupil. 

Tools. Saws, plane, square, rule, pencil, brace, f" bit, 
screw-driver, ^o" drill, and counter sink. 

Directions. Saw and plane all pieces to dimensions shown 
in the drawing. Draw a center line thru each leg. Measure 
off from one end 8". Measure out 4" from the same line and 
draw the triangle. At the apex of this triangle bore a f" 
hole. Rip-saw carefully on the lines of the triangle, as the 
surfaces are to be left just as sawed. From opposite end 
of the leg lay off on each edge a line 5" from end. Set gage 
to f " and gage to this line. Saw out notch carefully. Notice 
that the braces are to be beveled two inches. On the lower 
edge lay off 2", connect this point with the opposite corner, 
draw line and saw off. Lay off and bore holes for screws. 

Assembly. Screw side braces to legs. Put on the top. 



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62 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



FLY TRAP. 

Purpose. This fly trap, properly baited, will catch quarts 
of flies in a season. Set a dish of sweetened food under the 
trap, and keep it moist. The flies attracted to the food fly 
up thru the dark tin covered part below, and pass thru the 
small hole toward light above. The door at the top permits 
the trap being emptied at any time, after the flies are first 
smoked well. A trap like this is especially good for porches 
where flies gather when attracted by cooking. They are also 
excellent in grocery stores or in any place frequented by flies. 

Material. Pine. 

(1) One piece J4"xlO"x20". 

(2) One piece ^"x6"x21". 

(3) One piece tin 6M"x2'4;'^". 

(4) One piece screen 18"x3'. 

(.5) One small butt hinge with screws. 

(6) A number of small tacks, also 6d. common nails. 

Tools. Rip and crosscut-saw, keyhole saw, coping saw, 
plane, wood file, gage, rule, pencil, try-square, screw-driver, 
and hammer. 

Directions. On piece No. 1 in list of materials lay oi¥ two 
circles with diameters of 9". Saw these to the line with the 



coping saw. On one piece for the top lay off another circle, 
with the same center, with a 4f" diameter. This piece must 
be sawed with an inward slant of'|-" as shown in the draw- 
ing. This prevents the lid from slipping thru. With a small 
drill bore a few holes so that the key hole saw may be 
started. Finish with key hole or coping saw. On the other 
piece lay off and saw a circle with a diameter of 6", the 
bevel slanting outward. This piece is taken entirely out to 
give place for the screen cone. Work out the legs. 

Assembly. Shape a cone out of the screen leaving a j" 
hole at the top. With stout cord sew the screen together ; 
then tack it in at the bottom. Make it all perfectly tight so 
that no flies can by any means escape. Carefully tack the 
screen to both the top and bottom, leaving the lap to come 
beneath one of the legs. Tack on the tin making the lap 
come beneath another leg. Nail on the three legs. Put the 
hinge over the place where the holes were bored to begin 
the sawing so that the hinge will cover any open space. Op- 
posite the hinge put on a small wooden button. The tin 
around the bottom of the trap makes the lower part dark so 
that the flies work up towards the light and pass the hole 
in the top of the cone. Darkening the lower part with paper 
has the same efifect, but the paper does not last. 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



IRONING BOARDS. 

Purpose. An ironing board is a difficult problem, since it 
must be as light and as easily handled as it is possible to 
make it, and yet possess stability. Board No. 1 is an ex- 
cellent one in that it is light and easily handled and yet it is 
especially stable. The absence of much frame work under- 
neath makes it especially fine for ironing skirts and, dresses, 
and it also allows a basket to stand underneath the large 
pieces that are being ironed. The board is fastened to a 
table when in use, the wide end of the board slipping under 
the edge of the table. The long leg of the brace then slips 
up thru the seven inch cut-out place on the wide end of the 
board. The notch on this brace catches hold of the edge 
of the table, and the weight of the board automatically gives 
it support. When not in use this board folds into a very 
small space. 

Board No. 2 is less stable than the first one, is heavier 
and not so easily handled, yet it has an advantage in that 
it can be set into any desired place while in use. 

No. 1. 

Material. Pine, basswood, or yellow poplar. 
One piece ys"xlS"x4'5". 
One piece %"xl0"x3'9". 
One piece ?-^"xl2"xl754". 
Two pairs 114" butt hinges. 

Bill of Stock. The bill of stock is easily made out from 
the drawing. 

Tools. Saws, plane, rule, pencil, chisel, try-square, square, 
brace, small drill, coping saw, compass and screw-driver. 

Directions. Lay ofif and saw all pieces to dimensions 
given in the drawing. On the large piece for the ironing 
surface measure in 3f" from the end and square across. 



Set gage to 4", and gage lines along each edge from the end 
of the line just drawn. Saw to the gage lines with the rip- 
saw and on the cross line with the coping saw. At the op- 
posite end measure in from each edge 2-|", measure back 
15" from the end, and connect these points. Saw and plane 
to the line just made, and slightly round the corners. 
Measure in 10" from one end of the long brace and with 
the compass set at I5", and using this point as a center, 
describe an arc. Extend this line from this point to the end 
of the board with a gage. Repeat on opposite side of the 
board, and saw to the line. At the opposite end of the 
board, measure in t" and 2f", and draw lines across, using 
the square. Saw down ^" on the first line, and beginning 
back at the 2f" line, chisel in a slanting line to the bottom 
of the saw kerf just made. This makes the notch which 
catches onto the table edge. 

Assembly. Put on the cross braces with screws at the 
positions shown in the drawing. Screw on the 7" cross 
piece on the long brace. Hinge on the connecting brace to 
the long brace. The other end of connecting brace is hinged 
to the under cross strip of the ironing board. 

No. 2. 

Material. Same as in previous problem. 
One piece ?^"xl4"xl0'. 
One piece i/^"xl^"x3'4". 
One piece lM"xl%"x4". 
Several VA" screws and small brads. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 



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One piece />8"xl5"x4'8". 
Two pieces y/s" xiy4'^x4'2'\ 
Two pieces %"xL34"x2'7". 
Two pieces %"xl34"x2'i/4". 
One piece 7^"xl34"x2'6". 
Two pieces %"xl%"xl4". 



Two pieces 5/2"x1;E^"x20". 
One piece I34"xl%"x4". 
One piece %" diameter x 17^". 
One piece J4" diameter x UK"- 
One piece %" diameter x 16", 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



Tools. Saws, plane, rule, pencil, gage, wood file, brace, 
f" bit, chisel, try-square, screw-driver and hammer. 

Directions. You will notice that all material except the 
top is If" and that instead of measuring from the ends of 
pieces the centers of holes are used. Rip-saw and plane all 
pieces to dimensions in bill of stock. Lay off and bore holes 
to dimensions indicated, shaping the ends as shown in the 
drawing. The top may be modelled to suit worker, the 
drawing being a suggestion. Plane down the rounds, or 
better still, turn them out on a lathe. Care must be taken 
to make all joints fit snugly to keep the board from wobbling 
when in use. 



SCREENS. 

Purpose. While these two screens may be used for their 
original purpose of screening doors and windows, it is also 
entirely possible to vary the proportions of the screens so 
that they may be used in outdoor sleeping porches and all 
kinds of screened porches and rooms. 



Door Screens. 



Material. 

(1) 
(2) 
(3) 
(4) 
(5) 



(6) 
(7) 
(8) 



Two pieces I>^"x3"x6'10" pine. 
One piece VA"x6"x2'5y2". 
One piece lr/^"x4K"x2'Si/". 
One piece li/s"x3"x2'S^". 
One piece l_^"x2"xnii/^". 
T^i.- _i _• ,__ - .11 -L _ - ,ade from a board 



One piece l_^"x2"xnii/^". 
The above pieces may all be mz 

Ii^"xl2"x8'. 

One piece galvanized screen 6'3" cut from roll 30" wide. 
Two pieces of molding 14" long. 
A number of 1" finishing nails, also a number of 2 oz. 

tacks. 



(9) 



tacks. 
Glue. 



Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) Two pieces I^"x234"x6'8" for sides. 

(2) On piece Ii/s"x5i/2"x2'5!^" for bottom cross piece. 

(3) One piece 1%" x4" x2' SlA" for middle cross piece. 

(4) One piece lJ^"x234"x2'S^" for lower cross piece. 

(5) One piece l^"xlM"xl'llj4" for lower brace. 

Tools. Saw, plane, rule, try-square, gage, brace, V' bit, 
V' chisel, hammer, knife, and small hand made miter-box. 

Directions. Rip-saw from the piece of pine two pieces 
^" X 3" X 6'10". Plane one edge on each. Put both pieces 
in the vise, the planed edges upward, and mark out the 
mortises. These lengths are 2" longer than the finished 
pieces. Leave the extra inch at each end until ready to fit 
screen to opening. Rip out pieces Nos. 2, 3, 4, mentioned in 
list of materials. Finish No. 3 to exact dimensions. Plane 
one edge of Nos. 2 and 4. Lay out and make tenons on last 
three pieces, Nos. 2, 3, and 4 in bill of stock. Plane piece 
No. 5 to correct dimensions and lay out and make tenons. 
Of all these pieces only Nos. 3 and 5 are finished to correct 
widths. The other pieces should be left over-sized and un- 
finished on the outer edges until the screen is finished and 
ready to be fitted to the particular opening for which it is 
made. 

Assembly. Glue the parts together. As the screen will 
necessarily have to stand considerable weathering, put a 
fcAv 1" brads into the joints. 

Put on the wire screening with tacks, stretching as evenly 
and tightly as possible. Put it on in one piece. 

Miter and put on molding. Cut ofif extra screening with 
sharp knife, also screening between sections. 

Fit screen to opening. 

Remark: The frames and molding should be painted 
before the screening is put on, except the outside edges of 
the frame. These edges may be painted after fitting if 
desired. 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



Window Screen. 

Purpose. This type of screen is coming more and more 
into use. It has an advantage over the old half screen in 
that the upper and lower sashes may be raised and lowered 
at will. 

Material. 

(1) Two pieces yA"x2V2"x5'4". 

(2) One piece %"x3H"x20". 

(3) One piece ^-^"x2i4"x20". 

(4) One piece ^"xli4"x20". 

The above pieces may be made from a board 
%';x5"x8'8". 

(5) One piece galvanized screening 4'H" cut from a roll 20" 

wide. 

(6) Two pieces of molding, one 10' and the other 8'. 

(7) A number of yf^" brads and 2 oz. tacks, also soutj glue. 

Bill of Stock. The bill'of stock may be made out by the 
pupil. Make an allowance of 2", as in the door screen, for 
the side pieces. 

The tools, directions and assembly are the same as in the 
previous problem. 

KITCHEN TABLE. 

Purpose. This table is an excellent one for the kitchen 
and it can be made as much larger as is desired. It is also 
suitable for a student's table. From the construction stand- 
point it affords an application for the earlier exercise work, 
since it contains good work in planing tapers, making mor- 
tise-and-tenon joints and glue joints. It also contains work 
in drawer constrtiction, and the common commercial form of 
joint as shown in the detail. 

Material. Pine. 

One piece 2^"x2i//'xl0'. 

One pieec 7/^"xl2"xl6'. 

One piece ^"x354"x3'10". 

One piece plaster board 15>^"xl5^", 



One piece zinc 2'6"x3'6". 

Four lag-screws ?^"x4i/^". 

A number of 1^" screws and 6d. casing nails. 

Bill of Stock. To make out a bill of stock adds greatly to 
the power of the student, hence the bill has been left out. 

Tools. Saws, planes, rule, pencil, try-square, gage, chisel, 
brace, f" and ^^" bits, screw-driver, hammer, gouge and 

plow. 

Directions. Measure down 5" on the legs and pencil 
around the leg. Select two opposite sides to plane first. 
Admeasure in from each corner on the floor end and connect 
with the ends of the above lines to give the slant of the 
legs. Plane down to the lines. Two sides being planed, 
lay oiif and plane the two other sides in the same manner, 
the leg thus being 24" square at the top and down 5". then 
tapering to l-J" square at the lower end. Lay out and make 
the mortises f" wide and 3" long, the mortises beginning 
1" from the top of the leg in each case. Rip-saw and plane 
to dimensions the sides and ends. Lay out and make the 
tenons at each end. Saw and chisel out a f" joint 3" from 
the beginning of the tenon. This forms a groove across the 
width of the boards. (See detail of joint in drawing.) On 
one side saw out an opening 3V' x 16" for a drawer. Fit 
the joints together to see that all fit tightly. While the 
table is still in this position make the corner braces and put 
them in place to be sure that they fit. Saw out and join the 
pieces for the top. Make the runners and also the drawer 
as shown in the detail. Plow out a ^" x ^" groove on the 
front and side pieces Y' from the lower edge and fit in a 
piece of plaster or compo board for the bottom. Fit a V' 
piece and nail it in at the rear end. This forms a drawer 
that has no wide cracks in the bottom, and being nailed, 
it cannot slide out. Make a small 4" handle with a plane 
and gouge. 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



Assembly. Glue the legs, sides, braces, and ends to- 
gether, doing this all at one glueing. When the glue has 
set bore a f" hole thru the corner brace, and in the same 
direction bore a iV' hole in the leg, and screw in place 
the f" X 4|" lag-screw. Put the drawer runners together 
with screws and either nail in place with finishing nails or 
with screws from the under inside in a slanting direction. 
Nail together the drawer, and put on the handle with two 
screws from the inside. Glue together and nail the top. 
Fit the zinc to the top, fitting the corners carefully and tack 
it on. 

KITCHEN SINK. 

Purpose. This sink has been designed for the farm home 
where there is no water system. The top part is made 
water tight but without a drain. Water may be spilled 
into the sink while using but it must be wiped out. The 
lower part is arranged for the bulky kitchen utensils. One 
shelf is provided, while the floor is used for the lower shelf. 

Material. White pine and fir ceiling. 

Nine pieces 5'g"x4"xl0' fir ceiling. 

Two pieces %"x4"xl2' fir ceiling. 

One piece J^"xl2"xl2'. 

One piece molding 10' long. 

Two pairs 1J4" butt hinges. 

Two cupboard catches. 

An assortment of nails and some white lead. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) Four pieces 7^"x2"x3'2;'^" for lengthwise part of frame. 

(2) Four pieces %"x2"xlS^" for ends of frame. 

(3) Two pieces %"x2"xl3%" for cross pieces of frame. 



(4) Two pieces %"x6"x3'S" for lengthwise part of sink. 

(5) Two pieces %"x6"xl5!^" for end of sink. 

(6) On piece ^"xlSi^"x3'4" for floor of sink. 

(7) Twenty-seven pieces 5/^"x4"x2'2" fir ceiling. 

(8) Ten pieces %"x4"x22" fir ceiling for doors. 

(9) One piece %"xl53/^"x3'3?^" for shelf. 

CIO) Two pieces %"x2"x2'5" for casing over and under doors. 

(11) One piece 7s"x2"x22" for casing between doors. 

(12) Four pieces ^"x2"xl3" for nail ties for doors. 

Tools. Saws, plane, plow, rule, pencil, square, try-square, 
screw-driver, small miter-box, chisel, gage, and hammer. 

Directions and Assembly. The'sink is made in two parts. 
The upper or water tight part, and the lower cabinet part. 
In making the upper part plow a groove f' wide and f" 
deep in each of the two sides and end pieces H" up from 
the lower edge, as shown in the detail of corner. When thru 
with the grooves make the joints as shown in the detail of 
the corner. Fit together to see that all joints are tight. 
Before nailing together put white, lead in all the joints. 

Saw and plane the frame pieces Nos. 1, 2, and 3 in bill 
of stock to exact dimensions. Nail together both sections. 
Cut the fir ceiling to lengths given in No. 7 in bill of stock. 
Nail on the back ceiling first, the pieces coming flush with 
the end as shown in the drawing. Likewise nail on the end 
pieces. Nail in the shelf. Nail on the two outside pieces of 
ceiling on each side ; then the upper and lower casings in 
front, and the casing between the doors. Make the doors 
separately, fit to the opening, and then put on the hinges 
and cupboard catches. Lastly lay ofi^ the molding to 
lengths, miter the corners carefully, and nail on with finish- 
ing nails, setting the nails slightly beneath the surface. 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



KITCHEN CABINET. 

Purpose. There are many kinds of kitchen cabinets, and 
the one given here is meant only as a guide. Each farm 
kitchen has its own suitable place for the cabinet, and the 
proportion and size should fit the place intended for it. 
Often an unused door opening can be utilized, affording a 
cabinet which opens between kitchen and dining room or 
kitchen and pantry. The number and size of the shelves 
too may be varied to suit the individual needs of the house- 
wife. 

Material. 

Seventeen pieces 4" ceiling 14' long. 
One piece lil" molding 9' long. 
Two pieces ^"xl2"xl4'. 
Five pieces K"xl2"xl0'. 
One piece ^"xl0"xl4'. 
One piece M"xlO"xlO'. 
Four cupboard catches. 

Four pairs of butt hinges, also a number of 6d. and 8d. finish- 
ing nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) Two pieces M"x24"x67^" for sides. 

(2) Two pieces %"xl0"x3'll!4" for upper outside casing. 

(3) Two pieces %"xl0"x2'6" for lower outside casing. 

(4) One piece i^"x2y2"x3'4" for lower casing. 

(5) One piece 34"xli^"x3'4". 

(6) One piece 34"x2^"x5'. 

(7) One piece 34"x2"x3'lli4". 

(8) One piece M"x2'^x2'6". 

(9) One piece 54"x7"x5' for front projection. 



(10) Two pieces J4"x22j4"x4'10i^" for lower shelves. 

(11) Four pieces ^"xl6j4"x4'10j4" for upper shelves. 

(12) One piece ?4"xl8"x5' for top. 

(13) Eight pieces 54"x3"xl9" for braces for doors. 

Tools. Saws, plane, square, try-square, rule, pencil, gage, 
screw-driver, gimlet bit, hammer and miter-box. 

Directions. Glue 12" boards together to make two ends, 
mentioned in No. 1 in bill of stock. Saw out the piece 6f" 
X 4' If" from each and use this scrap in making smaller parts 
such as Nos. 4, 5, 7 and 8. Work out all other pieces to 
dimensions given. The shelving need not be glued unless 
so desired. Make the four doors slightly longer than the 
dimensions needed, and fit them to the openings when 
ready to hang. 

Assembly. Lay the two ends on the floor with the back 
edge down and nail on the top piece, then the shelves, the 
lower one first. It is best to rest the shelves on a small 
Y' X I" cleat, but it is possible to nail them thru the out- 
side, setting the nails carefully so that the appearance is 
good. Nail on the ceiling at the back. You are now ready 
to begin casing the front. Put in the two lower upright 10" 
casing, then the lower cross casing and lastly the upright 
middle casing. Above the projection put on the casing un- 
der the molding, then the outer 10" casing and lastly the 
middle upright casing. Miter the joints of the molding at 
the front corners, and nail it all on. Fit doors to openings. 
Put on the hinges, being careful that the screws go through 
into the under braces. Lastly put on the cupboard catches. 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



ARTICLES FOR THE GARDEN. 

Purpose. The articles here given are needed in almost 
every garden. The five problems shown will furnish a good 
beginners course, especially in a rural school. 

The row marker and shrub label are small beginning 
problems. 

This tomato trellis is the best of many frames for raising 
tomatoes. The construction will possibly take a little more 
time the first year, but it is a great time saver, considering 
the number of years one of these may be used. 

The transplanter is used is setting out cabbages, toma- 
toes, and any other plants or flowers. 

The trellis for a small vine is a type. The dimensions 
may be changed to suit the vine for which it is made. 



Row Marker. 

The list of materials and the bill of stock are left out in 
each case as a glance at the drawing will suffice. 

Directions. Plane the piece to dimensions and lay it oft' 
as shown in the drawing. Saw outside the lines and plane 
smooth. 

Shrub Label. 

Directions. Lay off as shown in drawing and finish with 
a knife. 

Tomato Trellis. 

Material. Any cheap lumber such as crates, boxes, etc. 

Tools. Saws, gage, rule, pencil, try-square, and hammer. 



Directions. Work all pieces to dimensions given in the 
drawing. Make one complete side. Place the two legs for 
the other side in position with reference to the finished 
side, and nail the pieces together to form the second side. 
(This is done to make sure the trellis will fold.) Drive in 
a nail at each end and bend over the point. This nail will 
act as a hinge. 

Transplanter. 

Tools. Saw, plane, knife, gage, rule, pencil, brace, 1" bit, 
wood file, draw-knife, hammer and try-square. 

Directions. On the larger piece measure in ^" and pencil 
around the piece using the try-square. In the center of one 
side at one end bore a 1" hole thru the piece. Beginning 
down 2" cut the remainder of the piece down, with a draw- 
knife, first, to a four sided figure, then eight sided and lastly 
to a round cone-shaped figure. Round off the edges with a 
wood file. Saw off the ends, using the lines made at the 
beginning. This cuts away the top half of the bored hole, 
leaving the upper end to be shaped as shown in the end 
view of the drawing. 

Make a cylinder of the 1" x 1" x 4" piece. Place the 
cylinder in the end, and nail, setting the nails beneath the 
surface so as not to injure the hands. 



Tools. 

hammer. 



Trellis for Small Vine. 

Saws, plane, gage, rule, try-square, pencil and 



Directions. Taper the center upright, beginning about 6" 
from the end. Finish the other pieces to dimensions shown 
in the drawing, and with 8d. common nails, nail on the cross- 
pieces leaving a space of 1" at the top, and 6" between the 
other pieces in the order shown in the drawing. 



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LADDERS. 

Purpose. The step ladder here given is especially de- 
signed to be made in the shop. It does not require the 
patented iron folders nor the iron frame at the top. The 
iron rod may be cut and threaded in any ordinary shop. 

The second ladder is made especially for picking fruit. 
The long sharp upper end may be slid into the fork of a 
limb, thus saving the limbs from being spread apart and 
broken. There is less chance for fruit being knocked off the 
tree, and much less chance for accidents. 

Step Ladder. 

Material, Pine. 

One piece M^^xS^^xlO'. 

One piece ^"x8"x5'. 

One J4"x17" rod with a nvit at each end. 

One Va" rope 3'4" long. 

A number of 6d. and 8d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) Two pieces ?4"x3J/2"x5' for supports for steps. 

Four steps M"x3>^"x one each of 14^", 14%", 15^" and 15%". 

(3) One piece M"x4i/l"xl7" for top. 

(4) Two pieces ^"xl%"x4'll" for braces to steps. 

(5) Two pieces y/'xV/2"x3'4W for cross braces. 

(6) Three pieces i/4"xl^/4"x one each of 17i/^",16M", and 16" 

for braces. 

Tools. Saws, plane, chisel, rule, pencil, try-square, T- 
bevel, brace, ^-" bit, gage and hammer. 

Directions. Saw and plane all pieces to dimensions given 
in bill of stock. Set the T-bevel at an angle of 75°. Place 
the bevel at one end of the board used for support of steps 
to get the angle of the base. Measure up 11|" and 12" and 
draw a line at the set angle to mark position for first step. 
Continue this to the end of the piece. Lay out the similar 



board in the same way, remembering that the notches cut 
for the steps are to be on the inside. Set the gage to ^'^ 
and gage along each edge between the lines just drawn to 
mark place for the notches. Saw down to the gage line 
and chisel out the wood between the lines. Bore a ^" hole 
at the top ^" from the end and Y' from the edge. In sawing 
the steps to the desired length be sure they have the proper 
angle. Bevel the pieces No. 4 in bill of stock at one end, 
and at the other end bore a |" hole |" from the end, and 
round off the corners. 

Assembly. Put the steps and side pieces together with 
1^" No. 9 screws. Nail on the top. Nail the cross braces, 
No. 6 in bill of stock, to the braces, and also No. 4 at the 
distances shown in the drawing. Hold the cross braces in 
position, mark the angles at the ends, and saw. Nail them 
on over the middle crosspiece. This gives an arch effect 
to the brace as a whole which allows light pieces to be 
used and still be of sufficient strength. 

Fruit Picking Ladder. 

Material. Pine. 

Two pieces P-^"x23^"xl2'. 

One piece PA" xiy," x4' . 

One piece %"x8"x8' for steps. 

Two bolts Vs"x7V2". 

A number of 8d. nails or IJ^" screws. 



I 



Bill of Stock. 

list of material. 



The bill of stock is almost the same as the 






Tools. Saws, plane, T-bevel, gage, rule, pencil, brace, 
bit, and hammer. 

Directions. Round off the upper ends of the long ladder 
pieces as shown in the drawing. The short upper end 
piece should have the width tapered from 3^" at one end to 
1|" at the other. From each side at one end measure in 1" 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



and draw lines to the corresponding corner at the other end. 
Saw and plane down to the lines. The ladder pieces and end 
pieces lap one foot. Bore two §" holes, one about 1^" from 
lower end and the other about 3" from the upper end. 
Mark and bore the holes in the center piece and put in the 
bolts. 

Assembly. Put on the lower step which is 21" long. The 
steps are 12" apart. It is best to make the steps plenty 
long and then saw them off after they have been nailed or 
screwed on. 

POTATO MARKER. 

Purpose. This marker is an almost indespensable article 
where potatoes are raised. It marks three rows with one 
operation, and at the same time marks a fourth row which 
is used by the driver in making the next set of rows. While 
this marker is made primarily for potato planting, more 
holes may be bored in the cross pieces, allowing the runners 
to be set at any desired width. By using different weights, 
any depth of row may be made. The tongue and pin from 
the regular farm wagon are used. 

Material. Pine with oak runners. 
One piece 2"x6"x7". 
Two pieces 2"x4"x8'. 
One piece 2"x4"x4'4". 
One piece 3"xlO"x21". 
One piece ^s"x3i/^"x5'9". 
One dozen lag-screws %"x4j^". 
One 3" ring made from J4" stock. 
Thirty inches V2" round Norway iron. 
A number of lOd. and 20d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. The bill of stock is almost identical with 
the above list of materials. 



Tools. Saws, plane, chisel, rule, square, pencil, brace, 
, f" and \" bits, monkey wrench and forging tools. 



_5 // -i" 
16 

Directions. In making the runners measure back 6" on 
an edge and draw a line to the opposite corner, and saw. 
In making the other runners one sawing will make the slant 
for two runners. On the 8' crosspiece find the center, and 
with square draw a line across. Measure 3' and 3'6" on each 
side of this line and draw lines across, as in the middle. 
Bore two f " holes on each line. To shape the guide marker, 
measure in 4" on each edge and draw a line to the opposite 
corner. In the center on the upper edge measure If" on 
each side of the point, and draw lines across. Saw down 
^" and chisel out the notch so as to let the 5" marker ex- 
tension bit flush with the surface. Nail this piece to the 
marker. Measure from the center of the marker 3" and 
3'6" and bore \" holes in the middle. Make a 3" iron ring. 
Bend the iron rod as shown in the drawing ; flatten each 
end, bore a 5" hole at each end, and nail or screw to the 
marker, being sure that the ring is put in before nailing 
down permanently. 

Assembly. Place the runners in position and put over 
these the crosspiece. ]\Iark the holes and bore 1%" holes 
at each place. Put in the lag screws. Place the holders for 
the wagon tongue in position using the measurements shown 
in the drawing, but before nailing down, bore two holes 
for the wagon pin 7\" from the front end. Bore a \" hole 
in the upper edge of the two outside runners in about the 
position shown in the top and end views in the drawing. 
Drive in a \" piece of iron leaving it to extend about 2" 
above the runner. The guide marker slips over this rod 
when in use. 

In using the guide marker tie a small rope into the ring 
and a check at the other end to hook into the single-tree. 
This guide marker is taken off at each end of the row and 
placed on the opposite side. 



Plate 35 



5'- 0' 



24' 



3" King 




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80 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



1 



GARDEN MARKER. 

Purpose. As the country is beconiing more thickly set- 
tled, and farm work is getting to be more intensive ; the 
truck farm and market garden is coming into a prominent 
place as a means of livlihood. This marker is designed for 
use on this kind of farm, and its convenience makes it well 
worth the trouble of making. By shifting the runners and 
fastening with the movable pins, any width row can be 
made. 



Material. 

(1) One piece lK"x7"x6' pine. 

(2) One piece 1j4"x4"x2'. 

(3) One piece l"x4"xS'4". 

(4) One piece Ij4"x6"x7'4". 

(5) One piece I"x4"x4'2". 

(6) Four pins 3/^"x6". 

A number of 8d. and lOd. common nails. 



Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) Three pieces I^"x7"x2' for runners. 

(2) Three pieces \%"xl%"x2' for tops of runners. 

(3) Two pieces I"x2"x5' for handles. 

(4) One piece I"x4"x2'10" for support for handles. 

(5) Ii4"x3"x7'4" for runner stays. 

(6) Two pieces I"x2"xl6" for braces. 



Tools. Saws, planes, hammer, compass, brace, f" bit, 
rule, try-square, spokeshave, knife, wood file and chisel. 

Directions. Saw piece No. 1 mentioned in list of material 
into three pieces 2' long. Lay off and saw the 1^" x 3" 
notches shown in detail, in the drawing of the runners. 
Round ofif the end, beginning back about 6". Bevel the 
runner to a V-shape as shown in cross-section. 

Bore holes as indicated in the drawing in the two runner 
stays in No. 5 in bill of stock. Finish piece No. 4, the 
support for the handles, as shown in the detail. 

Work down handles as shown in detail, using spokeshave 
and file to round off the ends to be used for handles. 

Make the pins, from hard wood. 

Assembly. Nail pieces mentioned in No. 2 in bill of stock 
to tops of the runners. Find center of piece immediately 
above each notch on the two outside runners. At this point 
bore a f hole thru the piece just nailed on and down two 
inches into the runner. These holes are for the pins which 
hold the runners in place. 

Find the middle of the crosspieces, or runner stays, and 
nail the middle runner into position. Slide the other run- 
ners on and put pins in place. Nail on the support for the 
handles. Cut and fit the two braces. Put in place, and nail 
on the handles. 



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82 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



PORTABLE COLD FRAME. 

Purpose. This cold frame can be used advantageously in 
any climate^ where the winter temperature is below the 
growing point for plant life. In southern climates green 
things such as lettuce, radishes, mustard, spinach, and even 
tomatoes, can be grown during the entire winter. A woman 
in^ Dallas, Texas, supplies her twenty and more boarders 
with green things all winter long, Avith a cold frame less 
Avell built than the one given here. 

In the more northern climates seeds are olanted before 
the frost is gone. The sun shining thru the sflass warms the 
ground, accumnlationg enough heat to prevent infurv from 
tolerablv hard freezes. More protection still is given if 
manure is packed around the frame. Cabbage, tomato, 
celerv and such plants are much sturdier if started in the 
cold frame. Thev can be accustomed graduallv to the out 
door air before transplanting. All flowering plants which 
are transplanted such as salvia, pansies, asters, etc.. grow 
much stronger if s+arted in the forcing box. There is a great 
deal of eenuine pleasure, and a. great deal of profit in the 
use of this box. 

It is an easy matter to s-et hold of some old window 
sashes or storm windows. The size of the window frame 
used will determine the size of the box, the lower part 
being made^to fit the frame. This box may be moved about 
easily, and is stored away when not in use. With ordinary 
care it will last for years. 

Material. Pine. 

Two pieces .M"x8"xl4'. 

One piece 3/"x8"xl2'. 

One piece 2"x4"x6'. 

One piece 34"xl0"xl4' shiplap. 

One piece %"x6"xlO'. 

Two storm windows 2'6"x4'6". 

Three pairs 2" butt hinges. 

A number of 8d. common nails. 



Bill of Stock. The bill of stock may be easily made from 
the drawing, and should the size of windows differ, the bill 
for this particular frame would not suffice. 

Tools. Saws, plane, square, try-square, rule, pencil, gage, 
and hammer. 

_ Directions. Saw and plane all pieces except the sides to 
dimensions given in the drawing. To lay out one of the 
sides lav down on the floor three 8" boards, the lower one 
being the correct length. The second board must be about 
7' long to make both the second and third boards without 
waste of material, the long cut making the long side for both 
pieces. The third 8" board, while laying off, may be any 
length. Measure in from one end 21", and with framing 
square, draw a line across. Connect this point with top 
corner of the first board. Saw the short cut and then the 
long cut. Turn this long cut over and re-mark to get the 
complete side. The other side is made in the same way. 
Saw out notches at the ridge point for the crosspiece l|"x 
Zy as -shown in the drawing. Bevel the piece last men- 
tioned to conform to the slope of the roof. 

Assembly. Nail the side pieces together placing the inner 
nail tie in about the same position as shown in the drawing. 
Nail in the corner pieces and also the front and back pieces. 
Nail together the two pieces between the windows. Cut a 
4" notch in the front and upper pieces deep enough so that 
the bottom piece will come flush with the edge and nail into 
position. Nail the door together, nailing the shiplap to 
the under crosspieces. Nail on the piece marked A in the 
drawing. Put the hinges on the door and fasten them to the 
piece just nailed. Fasten on the storm windoAvs with 
hinges. It^ is necessary that these windows, as well as the 
door, be raised at times in the middle of the day to keep the 
plants from growing too rank. 



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Plate 37 



PooASLE Cold Fiiaam: 























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84 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



HOG TROUGHS. 

Purpose. This article is used on every farm, and it 
affords a problem in accurate joining and stability. The 
second trough is more sanitary, being easily cleaned, and it 
allows animals to get their food more easily. 



Trough No. 1. 
Material. 

Two pieces I?4"x6"xl2'. 

One piece I54"x6"x4'. 

One piece lM"x8"xl2'. 

One piece %"x4"xllj4". 

Some white lead, a number of 20d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. To be made by the pupil. 

Tools. Saw, plane, pencil, hammer, chisel, and square. 

Directions. Cut pieces to dimensions given in drawing. 
In sawing take unusual care to square the ends in the long 
pieces, using plane if necessary. Plane good straight edges 
on the 8" piece. 



Assembly. Put white lead on all joints before nailing. 
Nail together the long pieces forming the trough, then nail 
on the ends. Saw and chisel out a space for crosspiece in 
the middle, making it come flush with the upper surface. 
Nail on the crosspiece. 

Trough No. 2. 

Material. 

One piece m"xl0"xl2'. 

One piece I34"x8"xl6'. 

One piece ?^"x4"x3'3". 

Some white lead and a number of 20d. common nails. 

Tools. Same as preceding problem. 

Directions. Cut the material into pieces as shown in the 
drawing. Square the ends of the long pieces very carefully. 
Plane one good straight edge on the 8" plank so that it 
will make a good joint. Test' the joint before nailing. 

Assembly. Use white lead in all joints. Nail the 8" and 
10" planks together, then nail on the ends. Saw and chisel 
out spaces for the cross-ties. These cross-ties should come 
flush with the upper surface. 



- 24 ■■ ■ 



flOG TR.OUGHJ 



Plate 38 



r-c^ji|p 8-^iF-a--^ 



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86 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



GRAIN TROUGH FOR FEEDING SHEEP. 

Purpose. This grain trough does away with the wasteful 
method of feeding grain on the ground or floor where it 
becomes trampled and dirty. The trap-door enables a man 
to feed from the top and close it down again. It also pre- 
vents the sheep from crawling into or jumping over the 
feeding trough and overturning its contents. This trough 
will accommodate quite a number of sheep, since they may 
feed from both sides. It is very simple in construction. 

Material. 

One piece J/i"xl2"xl2' yellow pine. 

One piece ?^"xl2"xl6'. 

One piece %"x8"xl2'. 

Two pieces 2"x4"xl2'. 

Three %"x2" butt hinges. 

A number of 8d. and lOd. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

One piece %"xl2"xl2' for bottom. 

One piece ?'s"x8"xl2' for top. 

Three pieces %"x4"xl2' for door and sides. 

Three pieces ^"xl2"xl05^" for ends and partitions. 

Six pieces lM"x3i^"x22" for legs. 

Four pieces lJi"x3]4"xS' braces for legs. 



Tools. Saws, plane, square, pencil, T-bevel, hammer and 
chisel. 

Directions. Make the legs from one of the pieces of 
studding. Use 15|" on one arm of the square and 16" on 
the other to get the angle for sawing the leg. The entire 
length is V 10". Using the sqtiare, lay off angles and saw. 
Make a cross-lap joint so that a line drawn thru the center 
of the joint horiontally will be 9|" from the ground. An 
easy method to mark out this joint is to put one piece over 
the other to the correct dimensions, marking with a knife 
or sharp lead pencil and sawing to the inside of the lines. 
Saw the braces for the legs. Rip-saw a 12" board 12' long 
into two boards, one 8" and the other 4" wide. Rip the 8" 
board into two equal parts. Saw the 16' board into one 
piece 12' long and three pieces 10|" long. 

Assembly. Assemble the trough part first. Nail the two 
4" side pieces to the bottom board. Nail in the ends and the 
middle partition. Nail the box to the legs and put on the 
lower braces. Lastly put on the 8" top piece leaving the 
4" piece free for hinges. Put in the hinges. 

This trough should be put together very firmly as it is 
likely to have quite rough usage. 



1 



Glain Trough Fol Feeding ^hee? 

HiNSES To Ke Put At A-£-And C . 



Plate 35 



I— a" 



12"- 



s"-r-4"' ■- 



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C'-O" 



88 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



FEEDING TROUGH FOR STOCK. 

Purpose. This feeding trough is a necessity because of 
its convenience, cleanliness, and economy. It should be 
found on all stock and dairy farms. The material used is 
strong and heavy to prevent the trough from being over- 
turned by the cattle. Rough-sawed oak from the mill, hard 
pine, or any good substantial wood may be used, and if well 
built it will last for years. 

Material. 

(1) Five pieces 2"xl0"xl6'. 

(2) One piece 2"xl0"x7'. 

(3) One piece 4"x4"xl7'.^ 

(4) Two pieces 2"x6"xl2'. 

(5) One piece 2"x6"xl4'. 

(6) A number of 20d. common nails and two dozen J4"x6" 

bolts. (The bolts may be omitted but they make a 
more substantial trough.) 

Bill of Stock. The bill of stock may be easily made by 
studying the drawing carefully. 



Tools. Saws, square, rule, pencil, heavy hammer, brace 
and 4" bit. 

Directions. Square up and cut all pieces except braces. 
Cut six pieces 4' 1" long from No. 4 in list of material. You 
will notice that you are to cut three 4' 1" pieces from a 12' 
plank. This may be done by laying out all pieces before 
sawing so as to allow for slant 

Assembly. Lay two legs on the floor 3' 6" apart outer 
measurements. Measure down 10", and nail on a crosspiece, 
as A. Nail on the braces. Put one bolt in each joint. Com- 
plete the other sets of legs in the same way, making three 
sets. 

Stand the legs upright or on the side and nail on B, as 
shown in drawing, flush at each end, nailing the third set 
of legs in the middle. Nail on opposite board. Nail in the 
floor of the trough and lastly the ends, marked C in the 
drawing. Put a bolt in each leg thru side and end pieces 
marked B and C in the drawing. 



Feedins TiLouGtt Foil Jtock- 



Plate 40 



rwL 









lC'-4" 



7 



4" 



7-C" 



7-C" 



3'-&" 



i 



A 



A 




90 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



UNLOADING CHUTE. 

Purpose. This drawing shows a portable, substantial un- 
loading chute that should be found on every farm where hogs 
are raised for market. It is made especially strong so that 
it may be used also for cattle. The important thing in a 
chute is a strong floor. If it springs, the animals hesitate 
and if it is weak and breaks thru, there is danger of a 
broken leg. 

Material. Floor and supports oak if possible, altho a 
good grade of yellow pine will do. 
Three pieces lM"xl2"x8'. 
One piece I%"x6"xl4'. 
One piece lMx6"x8\ 
Three pieces %"x8"xl6'. 
One piece 2"x4"xl6'. 
Two pieces 2"x4"xl2'. 
One piece %"x6"x9'. 

A number of lOd., 16d. and 20d. common nails, also some lYz" 
No. 9 flat head screws. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) Three pieces I%"xl2"x7'5" for floor. 

(2) One piece I)4"x6"x7'5" for floor. 

(3) Two pieces ]^"x6"x7' for foundation. 

(4) Four pieces I^"x3^"x4'l" for cross ties. 

(5) Two pieces I34"x3i^"x57" for front uprights. 

(6) Two pieces I54"x3^"x4'5" for middle uprights. 

(7) Two pieces I%"x3^/4"x3'3" for rear uprights. 

(8) Six pieces .}4"x8"x7'8" for siding for chute. 

(9) Nine pieces %"x2"x3' for cleats. 

Tools. Saws, plane, rule, square, pencil, gage, T-bevel, 
and hammer. 



c- 9 Directions. Saw Nos. 3 to 7 inclusive to the lengths given 
in the bill of stock. Set the T-bevel to an angle on the 
square of 3" to 7". (See illustration on Plate 2.) Plane 
three of the cross-ties, No. 4 in bill of stock, on one edge 
to this angle. These are to fit up under the floor. Use this 
same angle in sawing the upper ends of Nos. 5, 6 and 7 in 
bill of stock. After pieces. No. 8 in bill of stock, have been 
measured to length set the T-bevel to these and draw angles 

for sawing, likewise the ends of the flooring. 

Assembly. Nail a beveled cross-tie, No. 4 in bill of stock; 
to the rear uprights at the lower end, and with the bevel 
in the position shown in the side view of the drawing. Like- 
wise nail on the crosspiece on the front uprights the upper 
edge of the bevel being 2' 7" from the lower end. Nail on 
the crosspiece at the bottom of these same uprights. Place 
the 2" X 6" pieces on the floor and toe-nail the rear up- 
rights to these, placing them in 4" from the end. The front 
uprights are placed 6" from the end and toe-nailed. (Brace 
them temporarily if necessary.) After being svtre that the 
uprights are vertical by using a level, place one of the 
pieces of flooring in place and put a nail in each end. Re- 
peat this at the other side. Toe-nail in the middle uprights 
at the places designated in the drawing. Hold the cross tie 
up to the flooring and nail. (This is done in this manner to 
make sure that there will be no spring, or give, to the 
floor.) Nail in the remaining pieces of flooring. Nail on 
the siding for the chute, the first piece fitting flush with the 
floor, and a 4" space between each of the other pieces. Put 
on the cleats with screws, allowing 8" space between each. 



Unloading Chute 



Plate 41 




7'-0" 



7" 
8 



==!.-.- 



Cleatj To Be Put On 
With li" " 3 3cr,ew5 



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Lea^ Yizw 



92 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



INDIVIDUAL HOG COT. 

Purpose. The best hog raisers of today are beginning to 
recognize the need of individual houses for sows with pigs. 
Tliey can be better cared for and each mother is less likely 
to lie on her pigs. The little pigs are kept more apart from 
the other litters and from the mature hogs in the lot. 

Material. Yellow pine. 
Two pieces 4"x4"x8'. 
Five pieces 2"x4"xl4'. 
Four pieces 2"x4"xl6'. 
Fifteen pieces 7,^"xl0"xl4' sliiplap. 
Seven pieces ^"xl2"x8'. 
One piece glass 6"x9". 
A number of 8d., lOd., 16d. and 20d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. It is only necessary to work out the pieces 
as the work proceeds. 

Tools. Saws, plane, square, rule, pencil, hammer and 
chisel. 

Directions and Assembly. The two 4" x 4" pieces are 
used for runners. The 2" x 4" pieces for the fioor foundation 



are set down If" into the 4x4, one across each end, one 
across the middle and one in the middle of the two spaces 
thus formed. Lay off the joints If" wide and \\" deep; saw 
and chisel out the wood. Place the pieces in position, and 
nail. Nail on the floor. The rafters are 6' 6" long — the 
longest edge. In laying out the rafters use 9\" on one arm 
of the square and 16f" on the other arm, using the square at 
one end 9\" to 16f", and at the other end 16f" to 9\" . Nail 
the rafters in place. Cut the cross-ties between the rafters 
and nail them into positions shown in the drawing. Next, 
make the frame for the opening. Square one end, and, 
setting it into place on the floor, and up against the rafter, 
mark and saw, and then nail in place. In a like manner 
mark and saw the other side, putting in the overhead piece 
last. Put the shiplap on the back end first, so as to use the 
small pieces on the front. 

Take advantage of the slant wherever possible in using 
small pieces. Board across the small opening in front, and 
later cut out the space for the glass and make the small 
casing. Nail on oue side of the roof first, sawing it with 
the same bevel as the slant on the roof, so that the roof 
ridge is well fitted and tight. 



Individual Hog Cot 

A DooR-To Fit Opening jV^ay BejVUde 
IfNecej/arjy- Alio An OfENiNG 
On R-EAR- Foil Ventilation , Jaave 
PojiTioN Aj Window 



Plate 4^ 




C'-IO" 




— s'-o 



94 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



MILKING STOOLS. 

"Little Maid, pretty Maid, whither goest thou?" 

"Down in the meadow to milk my cow." 
"May I go with thee?" "No, not now. 

When I send for thee, then come thou." 

Stools 1 and 2 are much alike. No. 3 is a rotind-top, three- 
legged stool well suited to milking outside, since the three 
legs easily adjust themselves to any unevenness of the 
ground. No. 4 furnishes also a platform for the milk pail, 
lessening the chance for dirt getting into the pail. 

No. 1. 
Material. 

One piece %"x8"x3' pine. 

Twenty-two 114", No. 9, flat head screws, or as many 8d. com- 
mon nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece 34"x8".xl0" for seat. 
Two pieces J4"x8"x9^" for legs. 
Four pieces J4"xl"x6" for braces. 

Tools. Saws, plane, T-bevel, try-square, screw-driver, 
gage, rule, pencil, countersink, brace, and 3'%" twist-drill. 

Directions. Cut pieces to dimensions shown in bill of 
stock. Set T-bevel to 45° angle, mark and saw braces. 

Assembly. Put top and legs together first, then put in 
braces. 

No. 2. 

Stool No. 2 is so nearly like stool No. 1 that the pupil 
may make out the working data for the entire problem, 
beginning with the list of material and including bill of 
stock, tools needed, directions for making and assembling. 

No. 3. 
Material. 

One piece Ii/^"xl0"xl0". 
One piece Ij4"xli/^"x2'6". 
Glue. 



Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) One piece Ij/2"xl0"xl0" for round top. 

(2) Three piecees Ii/^"xl5^"xl0" for legs. 

Tools. Saws, chisel, spokeshave, T-bevel, brace, 1" bit, 
dividers, compass, coping saw, drawknife and rule. 

Directions. Draw diagonal lines on both sides of piece 
No. 1 mentioned in bill of stock to find center. Set the 
dividers to 5", and draw circle. Cut to line with coping 
saw. On opposite side draw a circle with a radius of 2|". 
Set T-bevel on the square at an angle -|" to 4f". (See il- 
lustration Plate II.) With the compass divide the circle 
into three equal parts. At these points bore three 1" holes 
1" deep at the angle of the T-bevel. 

Find the center of one end on each leg, and with the 
compass set at ^" radius, draw circles. Using the draw- 
knife shave down to these circles, beginning about 2^" 
down. Finish with spokeshave. At opposite ends of the 
legs plane off to the angle set on the T-bevel. 

Assembly. Put glue in the holes and on ends of legs. 
Push in the legs. Let the glue set before using the stool. 

No. 4. 
Material. 

One piece J4"x8"x5'6" pine. 

Thirty-two 1>4", No. 9, flat head screws. 

Bill of Stock. To be made out by pupil. 

Tools. Saws, plane, try-square, pencil, screw-driver, 
brace, 7/32" drill, countersink and rule. 

Directions. Cut from the 8" board all pieces shown in 
the drawing. Lay off, bore, and countersink holes for 
screws. 

Assembly. Screw the legs to both seat and platform for 
pail. Turn stool over and screw on opposite legs. Screw 
braces into place to give stability to stool. 






No I 




10"- 



!nK 



9 L 



Milking Jtoolj 



Thr.ee Legged R.ound Top 
10" 



XX 



Tdia. 




n 




No 5 



PL^rE43 



10 



"1 





No.l 





b 






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T 



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ir- 



a4'' 



L 



96 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



NECKYOKE, SINGLETREE, AND EVENER. 

Purpose. These problems will be of great benefit to any 
one using horses. These pieces are often broken, and the 
ability to make them on short notice is most valuable. 
When made in the farm shop, the workman can select only 
the very best material, which should be entirely free from 
knots and cross-grained wood. 

Neckyoke. 
Material. 

One piece 2^"x2^"x3'2" hickory or oak. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
2"x2M"x3'l34". 

Tools. Saw, plane, gage, rule, spokeshave, compass and 
wood file. 
'('■]}■]/■ ■ ' ■ , j ■ i '! I ',"!;' ' ' '!'"^""T'|1 

Directions. Square up material to dimensions given in 
the drawing. This forms a piece of wood 1|" square at 
each end, with a 2" x 2f" rectangle in the middle. In plan- 
ing the ends to get the IJ" square, plane I" off of the upper 
surface of ends and f" off of lower surface. This leaves 
about -|" extra width at ends which may be planed to right 
size. Draw a circle If" in diameter on both ends. Plane 
this piece to an eight-sided figure, then begin to round by 
shaving and filing off the sharp edges. 



Singletree. 
Material. 

One piece 2"x2%"x2'10j/;" oak or hickory. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

One piece I%"x2>^"x2'10". Finished dimensions. 

Tools. Same as for neckyoke. 

Directions. This is exactly the same problem as the neck- 
yoke with different dimensions. Square up material to 
dimensions given in the drawing. Draw circles of 1|" 



diameter at each end and shave down to eight sides, 
off sharp edges and file smooth. 



Shave 



Evener. 
Material. 

One piece l->4"x4%"x4' white oak or hickory. 
Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
One piece I^"x4i^"x4'. 

Tools. Saw, plane, gage, rule, spokeshave, brace, f" and 
y bits, wood file and chisel. 

Directions. Square up material to dimensions given in 
drawing. Lay off and bore the middle hole If" in from the 
straight edge. Bore the two f" holes 2|" from each end, 
and j%" in from the slanting side. At each end bore a Y' 
hole, perpendicular to the f " hole. These should be 1|" 
from the end. Bolts are put thru these holes to keep the 
ends from splitting. Chamfer ends and corners where 
shown in drawing. 



■»w¥iiTTw^fTifiinmmnM 



Neckyoke 



Plate 44 




'2-'l 



5- If 



Jingle TR.EE 




J Hole 



•OID T 
ro 1 



g iloLE 



— ^'Lp- 



L3-J 






2:-io" 



-1^ 



'itr— n'^P 



98 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



WAGON BOX. 

Purpose. This wagon box is made for a grain box, but 
may be used for general purposes. The problem may seem 
a little large but the author has had as many as eight of 
these made b}^ pupils in a single year. 

The box beneath may be made separate from the side 
boards. It is possible to construct the entire box, including 
the rods, side braces and irons, but these can be. bought 
almost as cheap as the material will cost, so it is advisable 
to buy them, the construction and assembling of the box 
beneath being a big undertaking in itself. 

Material. For bottom box. 

Two pieces %"xl4"xl4' white pine or hickory. 

One piece l^/<"x3j-2"xl6' hickory or oak. 

Twelve pieces ^"x4"xl2' fir flooring. 

One piece %"x8"xl2' white pine. 

Two 3^" wagon rods. 

One set, eight pieces, of wagon box strap bolts with nuts. 

Six •>^" wagon box side braces with nuts. 

A number of assorted VA", 2" and 2^" wagon box ^" oval 

head rivets. 
One pair 2" hinges for back end gate. 
Six feet of t1?"x1" wrought iron. 

Twenty-eight feet of 3/32" iron as shown at X, plate 46. 
An assortment of nails. 

Material. For top box. 

Two pieces %"xl0"xl4' white pine. 

One piece ?^"x8"x6'6". 

Two 3/i" wagon box rods. 

Twenty-eight feet of iron as shown at X, in detail. 

An assortment of 2" and 2^" wagon box ^4" oval head rivets. 

An assortment of nails and screws. 

If desired, 27' of ■^"xl;4" iron as shown at A, in detail. 

Bill of Stock. Lower box. Finished dimensions. 

(1) Two pieces ?^"xl4"xl0'9" for sides. 

(2) Two pieces %"xl4"x3'^" for end gates. 

(3) Three pieces Ii4"x3^"x4' for crosspieces. 



(4) One piece 1^4"x3^/2"x3'2" for front crosspiece. 

(5) Two pieces %"x354"x2'10" for K. 

(6) Two pieces i:^"xlH"x3'2" for L. 

(7) Twelve pieces 7/1^"x4"xl0'9" for flooring. 

(8) Four pieces ?^"x3"xl4" for crosspieces on end gate. 

(9) One piece Zi"x6V2"x3'2" for foot rest. 

(10) Four pieces J4."x2%"xl4" to make slot for end gates. 

(11) Four pieces %"x2;4"-"^12" to make slot for end gates. 



Top box. 

Two pieces ?^"xl0"xl0'9" for sides. 

Two pieces 7'ft"x\0"x3'%" for end gates. 

Four pieces ?^"x3"xlO" to make slots for end gates. 

Four pieces %"x2^."xl2" to make slots for end gates. 

Eight pieces 7/^"li4"xl2" for D. 

Tools. Saw, plane, square, rule, pencil, brace, 1", §" 
f" bits, forge shop tools, gage, wood file, chisel, riveting 
hammer and hammer. 



and 



Directions and Assembly. The cross braces, Nos. 3 and 
4, in bill of stock should be made first, the back one being 
finished as shown in the detail sheet. Lay off 38" (this 
being the width of the box) and bore holes just outside of 
this line for the strap bolts. Also bore holes where needed 
for side braces. Plane down the groove edge of one of the 
pieces of fir flooring. Lay the under crosspieces at the 
places shown in the drawing and put on the flooring, rip- 
ping the last piece so that the edge will be even with the 
edge of the hole. Mark a line across each end and saw oflf 
the extra pieces of flooring. Saw the sides to length and 
rivet on strap bolts, being careful to leave out the rivets 
where the side braces are placed. It is best to rivet these 
over an anvil or heavy piece of flat iron. Now rivet on the 
cleats that hold the end gates in place, being careful in 
each case not to put a rivet where the rod is to be. Nail 
on the steps and bore holes for side braces. Bolt the sides 
in place, put in the side braces and finish riveting. 



^■-10" 



Plate 4-5 



OI 



K 



lO ■ - 5 " 



r 



Wagon Box 



®yi'RDDS 



^T 



15 






D 



._ p 



C 



w 20" — 



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— - lO'- 9"-- 



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C 



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3'- a.- 



100 PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



The front end gate is made as shown in the detail, none at N. Bore the holes and put in the rods. Give the box two 

of the riveting- being done until the iron work has been good coats of paint. 

completed and the foot-rest made.' The back end gate is The construction of the top box is almost a repetition of 

made as shown in the detail, the board being sawed into the lower box except that wooden cleats are used instead of 

two pieces 12" from the right hand end. Nail the extra strap bolts shown as D in the detail sheet. These cleats 

piece to the smaller piece, and put a pair of hinges on the are riveted to the top side boards. Rods and pieces are 

inside. An iron button should be made for M in the draw- put on to hold the end gates as in the lower box. 
ing to hold the end gate together. This button is shown 



Wagon Box 

Petail JiiowiNG Construction 



JuGGEJTioN Foil Finishing B Jide Bracej' j-"---!^ 



flOLE=1%^ 



PlateAC 



A 



--■-,"' ^ 



To Make Tight Grajn Box 

A 



© Hole FoilJckew"[ 

IcXlif'TKON" 



EackEnd Gate 



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FjKoNT Eni> Gate Showing Foote£5T 



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Corner. Of Footeejt 



102 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



SPRING SEAT. 

Purpose. Because of hard usage and from being thrown 
around, the ordinary spring seat wears out before the wagon 
box. There remains a set of good springs and hooks and 
iron strips, leaving just the wood arid rivets or bolts to be 
purchased. However, if desired all the hardware except 
the springs may be made in the shop. 

Material. Pine and a set of hardware from an old spring 

seat. 

One piece ?4"x8"xlO'. 

One piece 5'4"'^5"x3'. 

One piece U<"xl34"x3'4". 

One piece l"xl^"x24". 

One dozen A" rivets or bolts 2" long. 

Four A" rivets or bolts 1%" long. 



Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

( 1 ) One piece 34"xl6"x3'>4" for seat. 

(2) One piece %"x63/2"x2'll" for back. 

(3) Two pieces M"x4i4"xl7" for ends. 

(4) Two pieces l'/2"xlM"xl9j/l" for below springs. 

(5) Two pieces \" ■aV'//' yiWA" for above springs. 



Tools. Saws, plane, drawknife, spokeshave, rule, pencil, 
try-square, brace, ^V' bit, T-bevel and hammer. 



Directions. Glue two 8" boards together for bottom of 
seat, and work down to the dimensions given in No. 1 in 
bill of stock. Set the T-bevel at an angle of 1" to 3" (See 
illustration Plate II), and bevel one edge of No. 2 in bill of 
stock. Draw a freehand curve making the piece 6-J-" high 
in the middle and curving down to A\" at each end. Work 
down to the line by using the drawknife, and round the edge 
with the spokeshave. Bevel one edge of each of the end 
pieces, using the given angle on the T-bevel, and plane to 
the line. Mark, saw and plane one end of side board to the 
angle of the T-bevel. Saw opposite end parallel to this. 
On the under side of the pieces directly under the seat, cut 
a curve with the spokeshave that will fit the curve of the 
springs, using a little more than two-thirds of the length of 
the piece in the curve. Mark the holes in this piece by 
placing it over the springs and marking with a lead pencil. 
Bore holes with a yV' bit. Use the same process on the 
pieces below the springs, using about lO" in the curve and 
tapering the ends down to \". Mark and bore the holes 
for the spring, and also the hole at each end for the iron 
catches that fit over the wagon box. 

Assembly. Nail the back piece to the seat and then nail 
on the end pieces. Bolt or rivet the catches at each end on 
the lower piece below the springs, then bolt, or rivet, onto 
the springs. Mark and bore the holes in the seat and bolt 
or rivet the springs to the seat. 



J PILING JeAT 
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-r-if 



104 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



WAGON JACKS. 

Purpose. A wagon jack is one of the most convenient 
articles that can be had about the farm. In greasing wagon 
wheels the jack is placed beneath the axle and the wagon 
is easily lifted by using the lever of the wagon jack. The 
wheel is then easily removed while the greasing, or any 
repair work is done. Thus a great deal of clumsy and heavy 
lifting and a great deal of dirt on the clothing is saved. 

No. 1. 
Material. 

One piece 7,-^"x3"x7'3" oak or hard pine without knots. 

One piece Ij4"x3"xl6". 

One bolt or hard wood pin J4"x5". 

One piece strap iron ig"x^"xl7". 

One piece round iron J-8"x3'10". 

One bolt J^"x2". 

Two bolts H"x3". 

Bill of Stock. May be worked out from the drawing. 

Tools. Saw, plane, rule, chisel, pencil, brace, f " bit, try- 
square, post drill and -J" drill bit, forge, anvil, hammer, vise 
tongs, and monkey wrench. 

Directions. Make the base piece to dimensions given in 
the drawing. In making the uprights, measure in 3" from 
an end and make a notch ^" deep to fit over the base. Bore 
seven Y^ holes in the other end 1^" apart, lengthwise and 
alternating f" from each edge. Place both pieces evenly in 
the vise and bore the holes in both at the same time so that 
the pin will work smothly. Do not bore entirely thru — only 
until point of bit appears, and then bore from the other side 
to make a smooth hole. 

Taper one edge of the lever until it corresponds to meas- 
urements in drawing. Bore a i" hole in lever arm f" from 
lower edge and 5^" from end,"' also a §" hole in center of 
piece 24" from end. 



In the forge shop bend strap iron around the end of the 
lever as shown in drawing. Make an eye in each end of 
the f" round iron either by bending or by upsetting and 
then punching. Measure off 20|-" from the center of the 
eye and bend back at right angles. Measure over 3^" and 
bend back at right angles. 

Assembly. Put the two uprights over the base, place in 
vise, bore two f" holes, and insert the bolts. Bore some 
holes in the strap iron; countersink and put in screws. 
Fasten the f " iron catch to the lever. Slip the iron over 
the uprights, slide the lever between the uprights, and insert 
the pin. The lever may be raised or lowered to meet 
different heights of axles. 

No. 2. 
Material. 

One piece lM"x4"xl2". 

One piece I%"x6"x2'2^". 

One piece %"x4i^"x20". 

Two pieces strap iron i\"xl"x354". 

Two pieces strap iron A"xl"x3". 

Two bolts J4"x3"; two i^"x3K"; one ^"x4"; one V/'xS". 

Glue. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) One piece lM"x4"xl2" for base. 

(2) One piece I%"x6"x2'2^" for uprights. 

(3) One piece %""x4i/^"x20" for handle. 

Tools. Saws, planes, rule, chisel, i" and 1" bits, knife, 
try-square, spokeshave, wood file, monkey wrench, post dri'l 
and 1" drill bit. 

Directions. Lay off and chisel out the mortise in the 
base. This mortise is If" wide, 6" long and ^f" deep. 
On the upright piece two notches, or steps, are to be made. 
At the upper end lay off two lines parallel with the end, one 
down 4" and the other 7". Set the gage 2" and gage 



No 1 



Wagoh Jacks 



No.Z 



Plate 48 



PlN- 



Z'-C- 



■■^ 



—I ClRO:l Jt^AP-, 



^2 



24" 



HOLE IN LEV- 
ER FOE. PIN - '9 



-sk 



1 



|r'/3"50LTj\ _j I 



— !£■■ 





11_ 



IZ 



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J 



3^ 



106 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



between the lines, then at 4" and gage from upper line to 
end for the upper notch. Saw to these lines. Lay out the 
curve on the piece beginning 7" from the lower end and 
finishing about 7" from the other end on the opposite side. 
Saw with a coping or turning saw. 

Lay out the irregular curves for the handle and saw, or 
shave to line with spokeshave. 

Bore two |" holes in upper end of the upright piece in 
about the positions shown in the drawing. These are to 
hold bolts which keep the wood from splitting. The lower 
hole should be started with the 1" bit and finished with the 
^" bit. This allows the bolt to fit down into the wood with- 
out interfering with the surface. The holes in the strap 
iron pieces should be drilled with the post drill. The dis- 
tance between centers in the 3^" pieces is 2\" , and in the 
3" strap the distance between centers is 2". 

The centers for the holes in upright piece at lower end 
are 1" from edge. The upper holes should be bored in 
about the position shown in the drawing. 

Assembly. Glue the upright piece to the base, and put 
in some long finishing nails. Put in the upper bolts in the 
uprights before fastening on the lever. Then put on the 
lower straps. 

SAND BOX. 

Purpose. This box is made for the purpose of hauling 
heavy stufif such as sand, dirt, trash and stones, and it is 
needed on every farm. It is made with a loose bed so that 
the dirt and sand may be tmloaded without shoveling. 



simply by turning the bottom boards up edgewise. Grain 
boxes are sometimes used for hauling these heavy loads, 
but they soon wear out, being too light. 

Material. Rough sawed yellow pine or oak. 
Two pieces I^"xl2"xl4'. 
One piece l3/4"xl2"x3'6". 
Ten pieces I^"x4"xl2'. 
One piece %"x6"x8'. 
A number of 8d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. The size of the different pieces may be 
taken easily from the drawing. 

Tools. Saws, square, rule, pencil, drawknife and hammer. 

Directions. Saw the floor boards to length. Cut down 
the ends of each with a drawknife, leaving the handles 
about 2\" wide and continuing the same size about \" back, 
as shown in the end and top views in the drawing. Then 
taper back to the end gate which is 6" from the end. Round 
off the corners until they are elliptical so that the hands 
may not be injured while using the box. 

Assembly. Nail the strips to hold the end gate to the 
side pieces. These are to hold the end gates as well as to 
keep the side pieces in place. Place the sides between the 
standards of the wagon and put in enough of the 2" x 4" 
pieces to make a fairly tight floor, sawing one piece at the 
side if necessary. Make the small extra side boards that 
elevate the seat and put in place. Put the seat board in 
place, mark the places for strips, and nail them on as 
shown in the detail. The extra side boards are not entirely 
necessary, but they make riding more comfortable. 



Plate 49 



JziMii- 



■^-^ 



1^: 



-=* 



Jai^d Box 



Detail Of Je AT 















1 










1 1 1 1 


1- 






10'-3" 





3 '-'S " 



smm>^\mmmm\m\t^^ 



■ JziL 



3'-2."- 



108 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



HOG COOP. 

Purpose. This coop is a frame that fits over an ordinary 
wagon box. It is made principally for hauling hogs, altho 
sheep, calves, or cattle are easily carried in the same coop. 
Some men haul hogs in a tight box, but this is sometimes 
fatal to fat hogs in hot weather for they sometimes smother 
to death. 

Material, Yellow pine. 
Eleven pieces J4"x4"xl6'. 
One piece ^"x4"xl2'. 
One piece %"x8"xl4'. 
Four wagon box rods. 
Four dozen i%"x254" bolts. 
A number of 6d. and 8d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. The dimensions of pieces may be easily 
found from the drawing. 

Tools. Saws, plane, square, rule pencil, brace, i^g" and 
I" bits, monkey wrench and hammer. 

Directions and Assembly. Notice that one 16' board will 
make one piece each of side strip and end gate. The 8' 
board makes the smaller strips for outside and inside cor- 
ners. Accurate measurements should be taken from the 



wagon box for which you expect to make this coop. The 
strips on each side of the end gate of the coop must cor- 
respond to those of the wagon box. Lay on the floor of the 
shop six inside strips, the narrow short strips at the ends, 
and the long upright strips in the middle. Lay on these, at 
the upper end, a long side piece, placing the narrow strips 
flush with the ends, and allowing a f" space for the end 
gate. Divide the other distances equally for the middle 
strips. Put on to these the four oi:tside pieces in the places 
shown in the drawing. Drive a nail thru all these to hold 
them temporarily. Slide in another long strip leaving a 
4J" space, and nail as before. Likewise put on the other 
two strips. In each of these joints bore a -f^" hole, and 
put in a bolt, driving another nail to make a strong joint. 
Carefully clinch all nails. Make the other side in the same 
manner. The end gates are made in the same manner, but 
they are smaller and more easily handled. Lay down the 
two outside strips and place on these the cross strips, then 
the inside upright strips. Make sure that the ends are 
straight, then nail and bolt the joints as before. When you 
have completed the end gates and are ready to put the coop 
together, notice the holes for the rods in the side view of 
the drawing. The lower rod is put in the gate outside to 
keep the animal from pushing it out, while the top rod is 
put in on the inside to balance the pressure. 



'iioG Coop 

To Tit Wagon Box Im Preceping D£A"wing 



Plate 50 









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4 


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1 
1 « 

1 

1 


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no 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



HAY FRAME. 

Purpose. The hay frame is one article that is nearly 
always made at home on the farm. There are many types 
of hay frames or hay racks: the flat rack for a low "handy 
wagon," the rack with bows at the back which curve up 
over the hind wheels, and the box rack used to a great 
extent in wheat growing countries. The box rack given 
here is selected from many styles of the box rack. Rough 
lumber can be used to good advantage in its construction. 

Material. 

(1) Two pieces 2"xl0"xl4' red elm or pine. 

(2) Three pieces 2"x6"xl6'. 

(3) Two pieces 2"x4"xl4'. 

(4) One piece 2"x4"xl2'. 

(5) Three pieces 2"x4"x8'. 

(6) Three pieces %"xl2"xl4'. 

(7) Six pieces %"xlO"xl4'. 

(8) Four pieces ^•^"x6"xl6'. 

(9) Two pieces %"x6"xl2'. 

(10) One piece V4"x6"xl4'. 

(11) Twentv-six bolts ?^"x4M". 

(12) Twelve bolts ys"x3". 

(13) Eight bolts i/^"x4". 

(14) Sixteen bolts H"xl8". 

(15) Sixteen pieces strap iron J4"xl^"x4i/^". 

(16) A number of 8d., lOd. and 16d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. The bill may be made out by the pupil. 
In most cases the bill of stock nearly corresponds with the 
list of materials. In following the directions given below, 
and the drawing, the bill of stock may be made out as you 
proceed with the work. 

Tools. Saws, planes, hammer, square, try-square, T- 
bevel, rule, pencil, gage, brace, -|" and i" bits, post drill 
with -|" drill and chisel. 

Directions and Assembly. Taper the four cross arms 
as shown in the end view of the drawing. Begin to taper 
these cross arms 24" in from each end, and finish ends to 



about 4" wide. Saw out a notch at each end of the cross 
arm If" x If" to allow the two pieces made from the stud- 
ding to fit flush with the end and top. 

Lay on the floor the two 2" x 6" pieces fourteen feet 
apart, and lay the 2" x 4" pieces at correct places. Place 
on these the two pieces 2" x 10" x 14' in the position shown 
in the top view of the di^awing. These pieces are 3' 2" 
apart over the hind wheels and 2' 8" apart over the front 
wheels. Place on the four cross-arms at proper places. 
Mark and bore holes in the lower cross pieces. Drill the 
holes in the iron straps 3^" from center to center. The con- 
struction of these joints is shown in detail. There are eight 
of them and they require the most careful work of the 
whole problem. When these joints are all made, nail on 
the If" X If" pieces at the end of the cross-arms. Saw out 
and bolt on the front and back ladder pieces. 

Bolt and nail on the corner uprights. Brace the ladder 
pieces by a board 2" x 6" cut to the right length. Notch 
these out to fit, and nail on. Nail the crosspieces onto both 
ladders, putting one bolt in each end. 

Fit in the floor of the rack, and nail. Likewise nail the 
covering onto the cross-arms. 

Put on the side slanting pieces, using one bolt in each end 
and finishing with nails. The last piece, No. 17, goes at the 
top of the ladder. 

Put on the cleats at D and E. The cleats at D prevent 
the rack from sliding forward and backward, and those at E 
are to prevent the front end slipping from side to side. 

The floor of the rack is narrow at the front end to allow 
the wagon being turned in a much smaller space. 

Hardware for the eight joints shown in detail may be 
bought, but they are often more troublesome than the home 
made kind shown in the detail. This kind of joint is often 
made by running a bolt down thru these three pieces shown 
in detail, but this is poor construction, since each piece is 
weakened to a great extent. 



Plate £1 



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-^ 3TRUCTIOK At 
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■-4'-0^^ 



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4'-0"- 



112 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



PIGEON HOUSE. 

Purpose. This house is designed to serve a colony of 
pigeons, there being fourteen separate nesting boxes. It 
will appeal to the boy or man interested in pigeons, and the 
making of this box will add interest to the pigeons them- 
selves, as well as to give training in shopwork and con- 
struction. 

The house should be placed on a platform well up out 
of the reach of cats and other animals. 



Material. 

(1) 
(2) 
(3) 
(4) 



One piece ^8"xl2"xl0' for front pieces. 
One piece /^"xl2"xl2' for side pieces. 
One piece J^"xl2"xl2' for middle and upper floors. 
One piece %"xl2"xl0' for lower floor and lower cross- 
wise partitions. 

(5) One piece %"xl2"xl4' for all middle partitions, also lower 

lengthwise and upper crosswise partitions and sup- 
ports for perches. 

(6) One piece ^"xl2"xl6' for roof boards and finishing cas- 

ing for roof. 

(7) A number of 8d. common nails, shingle nails, and finishing 

nails. 
(8; One-half bunch of 14" shingles. 

Bill of Stock. You will notice in the list of materials that 
you are told into what each piece is to be made. By follow- 
ing the directions and drawing carefully no trouble will 
be experienced in inaking out the sizes of each piece. 

Caution. Most of this house is made from 12" lumber. 
If for any reason the lumber should be less than 12" shorten 
the length and width of the house enough to make it cor- 
respond to the widths used. 

Tools. Saws, planes, hammer, square, try-square, T- 
bevel, gage, brace, ^" bit, extension bit, rule, pencil, chisel, 
key-hole saw. 



- Directions. Saw four front and back pieces from 10" 
board mentioned in No. 1 in list of materials. In making 
roof slant of 45° angle, make one sawing do for both pieces. 
Lay pieces forming fronts on to bench in position. Lay 
out and make openings, both ends and fronts being alike. 

To make side pieces, lay off on piece No. 2 in list of 
material, 2,' and mark across. Set bevel to edges of this 
board and draw lines on both edges. This makes entire 
length of this board 2'^". Saw carefully and you can make 
one sawing bevel two pieces. Cut six of these side pieces. 

For floors and partitions, except too partition under the 
roof, saw up numbers Nos. 3 to 8 in list of material to cor- 
rect dimensions. 

To make top partition cut the piece 12yV" long, draw 
diagonal and saw, making two triangular pieces. Saw oflf 
one point on each triangle, leaving the board IOtk" 
wide. These two placed together form the roof partition. 

Saw out roof boards, and bevel two pieces at 45° angle 
as shown at A in drawing. 

Saw two pieces for roof casings to dimensions shown at 
B in drawing, and bevel one edge at a 45° angle. 

Set T-bevel at 60°. Lay off and cut twenty-four pieces 
for supports for perches. Make perches from left over 
pieces or \" dowels. 

Assembly. The floors in each case should have the 12" 
board in the middle and the 6" boards on each side so as to 
break joints with the front and back pieces. 

Nail middle piece of first floor and lengthwise partition 
together at proper places. Nail on separately the four 
pieces forming the front and back. Put in rest of first floor. 
Raise to upright position, and put in lower crosswise par- 
titions. Nail on second floor. Put on six side pieces, nail- 
ing first to middle floor. Turn the house over and nail to 
first floor. Place and nail in all second story partitions, 
then third floor and roof partition. 



Pigeon Houje 



Plate i 2. 




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114 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



Nail on the roof boards, putting the two beveled boards 
on first. Miter piece B at each end, taking exact measure- 
ments from roof boards, and nail. 

Work out pieces marked C in drawing and nail on to 
roof boards, the lower end being mitered to fit piece B. 
Saw ofif extra portion below piece B, and miter upper end at 
45° angle. 

Put on shingles, allowing them to extend over the ends 
V' and over eaves 1". 

Put on ridge boards, first beveling them to correspond to 
slope of upper row of shingles. 

Fit all perches and supports together, and put in small 
finishing nail thru the ends of each to hold the dowel in 
place. 

Nail the supports to the sides of the house, the upper edge 
of the support being in each case IV' above the lower edge 
of the opening in the house. 

Give two good coats of paint. 

BRUSH AND CURRY-COMB CABINET FOR BARN. 

Purpose. This is a convenient box to keep about the 
barn for the curry-combs, brushes, medicines and other 
articles usually stuck in odd, out-of-the-way places. Articles 
always kept in one place can be found quickly. 

Material. Yellow pine or white pine. 
One piece ^"x8"xll'. 
One piece i/,"x8"x4'ip". 
One pair lyi" butt hinges. 
One screen hook. 
A number of 6d. and 8d. finishing nails, also some glue. 

Bill of Stock. In making out the bill of stock all pieces 
should be made to dimensions shown in drawing, except the 
two side pieces for the panel door, which should be made 
2" longer as is usual in making panel doors. 



Tools. Saws, plane and plow, brace, |" bit, try-square, 
rule, pencil, gage and hammer. 

Directions. In making this door follow the rules usually 
given for making panels. Leave the rought material some- 
what wider than the dimensions called for in the drawing; 
plane one joint edge on each of the four pieces ; lay out and 
make the mortises and tenons ; plow out the groove for the 
panel ; fit the panel, and glue only the joints, leaving the 
panel free to shrink and swell. After the glue has set, saw 
off extra lengths, and plane down to exact dimensions. 

Assembly. Nail the sides to the top and bottom. Nail 
in the shelf; then nail on the back. Lastly put on the front 
casing and fit and hinge the door. 

SCALES AND A CONVENIENT CASE FOR WEIGH- 
ING AND SAMPLING MILK. 

Purpose. The case shown in the drawing is one to be 
used by the farmer running a dairy. The shelves afford a 
place for keeping bottles and material for sampling milk. 
The scales are for the purpose of weighing the milk from an 
individual cow. The door that is let down forms a desk 
on which to write when jotting down any data. The scales 
hang on an iron arm which can be swung around in front 
or a little to one side of the case. 

When not in use the arm and scales are swung around 
into the box, and the door is closed until used again. The 
box should be nailed to the side of the dairy house at the 
most convenient height for the man who is to use it. 

Material. Yellow pine or basswood. 
One piece 34"x8"xl0'. 
One pair 2" butt hinges. 
Three staples. 

One piece Norway iron lA" dia., and 2'6" long. 
One pair scales. 
A number .of 8d. common nails and 8d. finishing nails. 



Plate -S3 



&K,u JH And Cukry-comb CaE)Inet For, Bakn 



JcALE^ ANP A Convenient Ca^e 
FoK- Weighing And ^SamfeingMilk- 



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116 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



Bill of Stock. Make all pieces to dimensions shown in 
the drawing. 

Tools, Saws, plane, try-square, rule, pencil, hammer, and 
forging tools. 

Directions. Saw and plane to dimensions all pieces 
shown in the drawing. This will finish all but the upright 
partition piece. This has the upper end cut away so as to 
allow the rod supporting the scales to swing freely. The 
greatest work will be in making the iron rod and brace in 
the forge shop. The door is made of two pieces glued 
together, or two strips may be screwed crosswise on the 
outside. 

Assembly. Nail the top and bottom to the sides, put in 
the partition and shelves and lastly the back. Put in the 
iron rod and brace with the staples, in the position shown 
in the drawing. Fasten the door with hinges at the bottom, 
and a small hook and screw-eye at the top. 

BEE HIVES. 

Bee raising is becoming more and more popular, not only 
for the interest and pleasure which the bees afford, but for 
the profit derived from them. Many farm homes are amply 
supplied with honey to the extent that it practically takes 
the place of sugar for all cooking purposes. The village 
and small town afford most excellent places for raising bees, 
and it is altogether possible to keep them in cities. 

The accompanying drawing is for a very complete and 
well equipped hive, such as a man would wish to use 
in extensive bee raising. The hive stand is used when 
the hives are kept on the ground. The front slanting board 
affords a landing place for the bees, as they fly home laden 
with honey. The feeding board given in detail is a platform 
where bees may feed if the left-over honey is exhausted 
and there is no feed to tide the bees over until summer. 



The hive proper is for the breeding comb, and the place 
where the bees store food for themselves during the winter, 
altho this also is taken out if so desired. The supers which 
are placed above the hive are for additional honey after the 
hive proper has been filled. It is in these supers that the 
comb honey is produced for market. 

Material, 

One piece 7^8"xlO"xl2' pine. 

One piece 7-g"x6"xl4'. 

One piece %"xl2"xl4". 

One piece %"x8"xl7". 

One piece ?^"xl0"x9'. 

One piece i4"x8"xl8". 

One piece galvanized iron 2l54"x2'3?4" for metal top cover. 

A number of staples to go in at D in foundation comb frames. 

A small quantity of tin strips %" wide to use on comb frames 

and at C in drawing. 
A number of different sizes of nails and brads. 

Tools. Saws, planes, chisel, knife, rule, pencil, try-square, 
tin shears, gage, plow and hammer. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 
Hive. 

Two pieces 7^"x9i^"x20" for sides. 
Two pieces ^"x9^"xl3i/4" for front and back. 
Two pieces H"x?4"x45^" for adjusts for opening. 
Two pieces l"xl^"xS" for handles. 

Two pieces ?^"xS5^"x20" for sides. 

Two pieces %"x5%''xl3i^" for front and back. 

Two pieces J/l"x4"xl2^" for support for sections. 

Top Cover. 

One piece %"xl4"x20" for top. 

Two pieces 7^"x3"x21?4" for sides. 

Two pieces %"x3"xl45^" for front and back. 



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118 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



Feeding Board. 

(1) Two pieces %"x2i/4"x21M" for sides. 

(2) One piece ?'^"x2H"xl4" for back. 

(3) One piece ^8"x9i/4"xl2^" for front platform. 

(4) One piece ^"xll%"xl2^" for back platform. 

(5) One piece ^"xl%"xl2" for division. 

(6) Nine pieces ^"x34"xlli4" for partitions. 

Hive Stand. 

(1) Two pieces %"x4"x2'23/^" for sides. 

(2) One piece %"x4"xl4" for back. 

(3) One piece %"x8i/^"xl4" for front. 

Comb Frames. 

(1) Eight pieces .>^"xlA"xl8^" for upper part of frarae. 

(2) Sixteen pieces ^"xlA"x9" for ends. 

(3) Eight pieces ^"x|4"xl7^" for lower part of frame. 

(4) Eight pieces ^"x54"xl654" for supports for foundation 

comb. 

Supports for Sections in Super. 

Seven pieces ^"xl^"xl6j4" for lower supports. 
Fourteen pieces M"xl^"xS5^" for uprights. 

Partitions Between Sections in Super. 
Twenty-four pieces ■^"x^"xl6". 
Twelve pieces H"x%"x5". 
Thirty-six pieces 'is"x^"x4l4". 

Directions for Making Hive. Plow out the groove on the 
end pieces at the top f" wide and f" deep for the projections 
on the upper ends of the foundation comb frame to rest on. 
Make the joints on the ends as shown in the detail on the 
first drawing. Nail the joints together carefully, making 
them insect proof to protect the bees. Put on the handles 
as shown in the drawing. 

Super. The joints for the super are the same as for the 
hive and they are made in the same way. 

Top. Make the top loose enough so that it will fit down 
loosely over the super. To do this leave the dimensions of 
the 14" X 20" board a little full. After the top has been 



nailed together bend and put on the metal top cover. A 
brick or some weight is usually put on the top to hold the 
hive and supers together in case of a high wind. 

Feeding Board. Cut all pieces to dimensions given in the 
bill of stock. Notice the construction of the feeding board 
in the detail sheet. Nail piece No. 5 to piece No. 4 first, 
then No. 3 to No. 4. Nail on the sides and end, and lastly 
the small cleats. 

Hive Stand. This may be made of a poorer grade of 
lumber than the hive and super. Measure down 4" on one 
edge of piece marked No. 1 in bill of stock, and draw line 
from opposite corner. Saw to the line. Nail on the back 
piece. Bevel both edges of No. 3 so that the upper end will 
fit up close to the feeding board and the bottom will be 
straight with the lower edge of the stand. 

Comb Frame. Cut all pieces to dimensions given in the 
bill of stock. The detail of the drawing will show the kinds 
of joints to be made on pieces Nos. 1 and 2 in bill of stock. 
These pieces should have a little glue placed in the joints 
as well as a few small brads. Piece No. 4 in the bill of 
stock is the one most likely to be misunderstood. A cross 
section is shown and called B in the detail sheet. The 



small 



groove is made with a very fine circular saw, 



set to saw y deep. The -jV" groove holds the foundation 
comb. Wedge a small strip of wood into the I" groove, 
thus holding the foundation comb firmly. The strip of tin 
put over the joint in each case is to add strength and to 
keep the bees from gluing the frame next to it together. 
The staple marked D in the detail sheet is for the same 
purpose as above, namely to keep the frame out away from 
the edge of the box. Also the piece of tin marked C is to 
raise up the frame to keep it from being glued down by the 
bees. This piece of tin runs the full width of the box. 

Supports for Sections in Super. These are easily and 
simply made. They consist of two end pieces and a bottom 



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120 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



piece nailed together, and small steel pins. These pins 
may be made from wire nails, the heads being filed off. 

Partitions between the Sections in Super. These par- 
titions call for very thin pieces of wood and must be handled 
carefully. None of the pieces need to be planed or smoothed 
down. It is not absolutely necessary that these be placed 
between the sections but it leads the bees to fill the boxes 
more evenly. A small toothed circular saw is almost neces- 
sary in making these pieces. Saw out all pieces to dimen- 
sions given in bill of stock. Make the joints on the end 
pieces by running the circular saw set about -|" deep down 
thru the middle of the piece. Nail them together with very 
small brads and use a brad for the pivot, cutting it off if 
too long. 

BEE HIVE FOR THE AMATEUR. 

Ask your grocer for a cracker box, or some box of about 
the same size. In the bottom of one end of the box cut a 
slot 5" deep and 4" long. Nail on two small cleats length- 
wise about l-g" up from the bottom, and to these nail four 
or five crosspieces. This platform is a precautionary 
measure to prevent the comb from breaking and falling 
down when the box is removed from the tree in the fall. 
Buy a piece of foundation comb 8" x 16" and cut into strips 
2" X 16". Nail in a small cleat across each end about \" 
down, or the width of the boards you are to use for the 
first top. Lay in one of these strips of wood, resting it on 
the cleats. Now place next to this a strip of foundation 
comb, bending it over the edge of the wood a little. Melt 
the turned over edge of the foundation comb just enough to 
make it stick to the piece of wood. Finish out the top, 
alternating the strips of wood and the foundation comb. 
The last strip of wood should fit tight, being wedged down 



into place. This first top should be flush with the top of the 
box. Now fasten on the regular top that came with the 
box, or one similar to it. Nail a 2" landing board below the 
opening in front. 

Screw on at the back a piece f" x 2" x 24" allowing it to 
stick up at least a foot over the back. This is to nail onto 
the tree when the hive is set out to catch wild bees. 

Select a tree with a branch coming out at a right angle as 
nearly as possible. Nail the strip of wood at the back to 
the tree trunk with a 16d. nail, leaving the head of the nail 
free so it can be easily drawn with a claw hammer. Put 
up these boxes early in the spring before the bees begin to 
swarm. The wild bees may be caught in the trees near the 
house or barns, in the woods or fields, or by the roadside. 
They may then be brought to the house if it is desired, or 
they may be left wherever they are caught until the honey 
season is over. In moving the swarm it is best to go after 
the bees are quiet for the evening, and close the slot opening 
to keep them all inside. After setting the box in its new 
place the slot may be opened and the bees will begin work 
with the new day. A long shelf nailed to the barn, or in 
any suitable place, furnishes an ideal place to keep several 
hives. 

This simpler bee hive is one of the best problems that can 
be used for boys. They take a very high dgree of interest 
in its construction, and it gives them a very profitable 
summer interest. Of seven hives put out in this manner, 
the author secured six good swarms of bees in one season. 
This was in Southern Minneota. 

Mother Goose was a very modest bird when she said : 
"A swarm of bees in May 
Is worth a load of hay. 
A swarm of bees in June 
Is worth a silver spoon." 



5ee H.IVE Foi^The Amateu^^ 



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122 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



CONCRETE MIXING BOX. 

Purpose. The use of concrete is becoming almost uni- 
versal. Concrete is easily mixed and it does not take an 
expert tradesman to do a great many simple kinds of work. 
Many farmers make their own walks, cisterns, vegetable 
cellars, fence posts and other things. 

On the drawing are shown a small mixing box and a 
form for a small concrete post. 

Material. Yellow pine. 
One piece %"xl2"xl6'. 
One piece %"x8"xl2'. 
One piece %"x3"x9'. 
One piece lM"x8"x6'. 
Four laths or thin strips. 
A number of 6d. and 8d. common nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

(1) Three pieces J'^"xl2"x5'4" for bottom. 

(2) Two pieces %"x8"x5'8j4" for sides. 

(3) Two pieces Ij4"x8"x3' for ends. 

(4) Three pieces %"x3"x3' for cross-braces. 

(5) Four laths 2'3". 

Tools. Saws, plane, square, T-bevel, rule, pencil, gage, 
chisel and hammer. 

Directions. Saw to dimensions all pieces mentioned in 
the bill of stock. Set the T-bevel to an angle of 3" to 6". 
(See illustration Plate II.) Plane to this angle one edge of 



each of the end pieces. No. 3 in bill of stock. Set gage to 
g-" and gage across each end, gaging from the widest face, 
as this will be to the inside of the mixing box. Measure in 
on the inside face |", draw a line, and saw down to the 
gage line. Chisel out the material for the joint. This joint 
shows plainly in the top view of the drawing. Shape the 
side pieces, No. 2 in bill of stock, and measure up 6" from 
one edge on the end. Set the T-bevel to this, draw the 
lines, and saw. Saw off the upper corner perpendicular to 
the edge just made at the 6" point mentioned above. 

Assembly. Lay the three bottom cross-braces on the 
floor and nail to these the floor of the mixing board. Nail 
the side and end pieces together, and then nail this frame to 
the floor. Nail the laths to the bottom over the cracks 
between the boards. 



FORM FOR CONCRETE POST. 



Material. 



One piece %"x8"x8'. 

One piece ?|"xl2"x8'. 

A number of 8d. common nails and several feet of wire. 

The construction of this form is so simple that the entire 
line of procedure is left to the student. After filling in the 
concrete, stick the wires into position, the loop end being 
embedded in the concrete. The two loose ends are for 
fastening the wire as it is stretched into place. 



Plate S 7 



Concrete Amm Box 



Form Fol ConcletePojt 



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5'-10" 



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Open Jide After. 
Concrete HasJeen b 
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124 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



CONCRETE FORM FOR SILO FOUNDATION. 

Purpose. This concrete form for a silo foundation was 
designed and built in the Manual Training Department at 
Spring Valley, Minn., and was used by the agricultural 
teacher in his work of helping the farmers build their silos. 
Each farmer paid a small fee for the rental of this form to 
offset the cost of construction. A well built form can be 
used for as many as twenty or two dozen silo foundations. 
The ordinary carpenter is unacquainted with this kind of 
construction, since it is not usually in his line of work. 
It is a most practical and useful article for a shop problem 
in any agricultural school. 

The diameters of silos vary greatly, but for the ordinary 
farmer with a small dairy or stock herd, the fourteen foot 
silo is coming to be recognized as the standard size, the 
height varying to suit the farmer. Brick, tile, and stave 
silos are built Avith the concrete base from twenty to twenty- 
four inches high and twelve inches thick. 

In building this form, the best grade of lumber should 
be used, especially for the boards that are to be bent. The 
lumber should be as free from knots as possible. Selected 
white pine is especially adaptable for the boards to be bent. 
The remainder of the form should be of good common 
lumber. 

Material. 

Six pieces %"xl0"xl4'. 

Eight pieces 74"xl0"xl2'. 

Two pieces 2"x6"x]4'. 

Three pieces VA"x6"xU'. 

Three pieces 7/^"x6"xl4'. 

Nine pieces 2"x4"xl4'. 

Three pieces ?^"x4"xl2'. 

One piece ?^"xlO"xlO'. 

One piece %"xl0"xl6' (to make pieces %"xl0"xl2".) 

An assortment of nails. 



Bill of Stock. The material will be cut to correct dimen- 
sions as the work proceeds. 

Tools. Saws, plane, square, rule, hammer and compass ; 
large compass made of an 8' strip of wood, nail and pencil ; 
power circular saw. 

Directions and Assembly. Before actual construction 
begins the six pieces |" x 10" x 14' and pieces f x 10" x 
12' should be sawed as shown in detail sheet. Saw the 
boards every six inches to the depth of f" with a saw that 
cuts about I" kerf. If the saw cuts a bigger kerf the space 
between saw cuts may be lengthened up to eight inches but 
this is not desirable. The boards bend better and more 
smoothly if cut 6" apart, and they are less likely to break at 
the joints. While sawing it is just as well to rip the 2x4's 
into 2x2's since it will need to be done later. 

After sawing these, the six boards 14' long should 
be taken to a large tank, pond or stream where they 
are soaked for twenty-four hours or longer. These are not 
taken out until they are readv to be used. Weight or tie 
the boards entirely underneath the surface so that the sun 
will not affect them. 

You are now readv to beein the construction of the "half 
wheels," as we will call them for conveience. Draw a 
straight line about fifteen feet long on the floor in some 
large open space. Using the center of this line and a 6|' 
radius draw a semi-circle. Lav off a point in the circum- 
ference on each side of the semi-circle 3" from the diameter 
as shown in the detail. Put the 2x6 on these points to the 
inside. Allowing J" on each end for the bending strips, 
mark and saw this 2x6 marked as D, to the required angle 
and length. Square end of 1|" piece and butt up against 
Di at center and mark off, being sure to allow |" for bend- 
ing strio. Saw and nail to D,. Bevel the edges of one end 
of another 1:|" piece to 45° angles and mark and saw D3 and 



$LATE 58 



COIICIILTE FORAV foR. J I LO "FOUNDATION" 





















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126 



PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



D4. Nail these in. In like manner put in Dg, D^, D^ and Dg. 
Next put on D^, D^o and D^. Now you are ready for the 
2x2's which have been sawed to 20" in length. Nail these 
D12, etc., on so that they will project an equal distance from 
the center of the spokes. 

Make the other "half wheel" in like manner. 

Get your material that has been soaking. 

You are now ready to put on the rim of the "half wheel." 
Take two pieces of 6x6 or a pile of smaller pieces as shown 
at D13, and elevate the spokes as shown in detail D. It 
requires two men at least to do this work, more are better. 
Nail on the first strip with its end three inches or more 
(if you can spare it) below the lower side of the 2x6, or 
first spoke of the wheel at Dig. One pupil should be nailing 
and the other holding the end at D^g. In the same manner 
nail a strip, beginning at the opposite side. With a third 
board splice out the space left open. If for some reason the 
boards do not join exactly over a 2x2, put in an extra one 
or a wide board about f" x 6" x 20". When this is com- 
pleted put in an extra 2x2 between the spokes where they 
are most needed as D^y. One is needed in each space. All 
this work should be done slowly and much common sense 
and patience must be exercised. The other half of the 
wheel is made in the same way. 

You are now ready to complete the connections between 
the two half wheels. These are shown in details A^ and A,. 
It is necessary to make these in this way in order to allow 
the inner forms to be taken from the wall when the concrete 
has hardened. This lessens the chance of ruining the forms, 
for if they have to be pried out, it is almost sure to damage 
the forms. Cut a piece of I" strip 20" long just wide 



enough so that strip A4 will come flush with the end of the 
rounded strip. Nail in this piece at A3 to the rounded strip ; 
then strip A4 should be nailed to A3. Force in rounded 
strip until it conforms to the 6J' circle and nail at Ag. The 
end A2 should be finished in the same way only IJ" should 
be allowed for strip B shown in detail B. This strip B 
is not nailed to the form but is held in place by a prop when 
the form is set up. When taking out the forms this piece 
is first taken out, thus allowing enough play so that the 
forms may be lifted out easily. 

The outer rim of the wheel is made in four sections. It 
is not absolutely necessary to soak the boards to be used, 
yet it renders them more pliable if soaked the first time they 
are used. 

Cut twenty or more pieces one foot long and ten inches 
wide to be used between the rims of the wheel to keep it 
exactly one foot wide. Place the sections around the inner 
wheel. Use two sets of rods and the extension pieces that 
come with the silo and begin tightening. This will draw 
the outer form to a circular shape. As you near the size 
you wish put in the one foot pieces spoken of above and 
tighten until the outer and inner rims are just one foot apart. 
The one foot pieces may be removed after you have partly 
filled the forms. 

When placing the forms in position a great deal of care 
should be taken to have the top of the form perfectly level. 

An ordinary hay frame is the most convenient means of 
transporting these forms. 

When not in use keep the forms under cover or at least 
in the shade of a tree to prevent too much action from the 
sun. 



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PROBLEMS IN FARM WOODWORK 



MOUSE PROOF CAGE FOR AGRICULTURAL 

EXHIBITS. 

Purpose. In schools where agriculture is taught it is 
very difficult to keep wheat, oats, seeds in sheaf, and weed 
samples from being damaged by mice. This cage will give 
the necessary protection for the samples. Being screened 
on every side it allows free circulation of air both above and 
below the samples. It may be placed in such a way as to 
allow pupils to walk around it, viewing the samples from 
every side. It is high enough for a man to stand in, and 
wide enough to afford a path thru the middle after samples 
are hung on each side. The dimensions given in the draw- 
ing may be changed to suit the individual needs of the 
school or home. 

Material. 

Eight pieces I^"x3i4"xl2'. 

Three pieces l^"x3H"xlO'. 

Four pieces %"xl0"xl4' sbiplap. 

One piece of galvanized screening 3'6"x37'. 

One piece of galvanized screening 3'x48'. 

One pair butt hinges. 

One lock or catch of some kind. 

A number of tin tacks and an -assortment of nails. 

Bill of Stock. Finished dimensions. 

Four pieces I|4"x354"xl2' for platform and upper frame. 

Two pieces lJ4"x3^"x3'2i/4" for ends of platform. 

Two pieces l^"x3^"x2'H" for braces between upper corners. 

Thirteen pieces %"xlO"x3'6" shiplap for floor. 

Six pieces I%"x35/2"x5'10>^" for corners and door frame. 

Eight pieces I54"xl%"x2'll" for screen braces. 

Ten pieces I%"xl3^"x2'lli'(i" for screen braces. 

One piece l%"xl%"xir8V2" for screen brace. 

Two pieces l%"xl%"x4'8^" for screen braces. 



One piece l%"xlj4"xll'8'/4" for screen brace. 
Two pieces %"x2"x23" for door. 
One piece %"xli/^"x23'; for door. 
Two pieces J'8"xl^"x3T' for door. 
One piece %"x3"x24" for threshold. 

Tools. Saws, plane, square, rule, pencil, brace, f 
knife, and hammer. 



bit, 



Directions and Assembly. Saw all pieces to dimensions 
given in the bill of stock. The bottom platform should be 
made first, the shiplap being put on crosswise to give 
strength. Twelve feet of the 42" screen is then laid and 
tacked over the platform to make the floor mouse proof. 
The main part of the frame is made of studding. The braces 
and inner parts used to support the screen are studding 
ripped into two parts. It is best to have these ripped with 
a power saw. In putting up the frame, first toe-nail the 
corner uprights, then nail on these the lengthwise pieces. 
Toe-nail in the cross-braces at the ends, and then the two 
pieces for the door frame. Nail in all the Ij" x If" braces 
for the screen. 

After the frame has been completed, begin at either the 
left or right end and put on the 42" screen over the end, 
top, and opposite end in one piece. Next put on the 36" 
screen horizontally, and nail the screen across as it will be 
when finished. Do not nail bottom of screen on middle 
section until the lower screen is stretched. Both layers of 
screen may be nailed at once to the middle section making 
a neater and better job. (If the frame is to be painted or 
stained this should be done before the screen is put on.) 
Make an ordinary screen door to dimensions given in the 
drawing, and put on screen as in the rest of the problem. 
Hinge on the door and put on a lock or catch as desired. 



TVvouJE PloofCage For, Agiiicultulal Exhibitj 



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BOOKS ON WOODWORKING 



TEXTBOOKS 

ESSEXTLiLS OF WOODWORKING 

By Ira S. Griffith. A textbook written especially for grammar 
and high school students. The standard textbook on elementary 
woodworking. A clear and comprehensive treatment of wood- 
working tools, materials, and processes, to supplement, but not 
to take the place of the instructions given by the teacher. The 
book does not contain a course of models; it may be used with 
any course. It is illustrated with photographs and numerous 
pen drawings. Price, 7 5 cents. 

BEGIXXIXG WOODWORK, At Home and in Seliool 

By Clinton S. Van Deusen. A valuable textbook for rural 
schools, by one who has made a special study of the manual train- 
ing problems in the country school. A full and clear description 
in detail of the fundamental processes of elementary benchwork 
in wood. This description is given through directions for making 
a few simple, useful articles, suitable either for school or home 
problems. The book contains more than one hundred original 
sketches and ten working drawings. Price, $1.00. 

WORKSHOP XOTE-BOOK — WOODWORKING 

By George G. Greene. A small-size textbook and note-book 
combined. It furnishes a few general and extremely important 
directions about tools and processes; and provides space for ad- 
ditional notes and working drawings of exercises and articles 
which the pupil is to construct. It is essentially a collection of 
helps, ideas, hints, suggestions, questions, facts, illustrations, 
etc., which have been prepared by a practical teacher to meet 
a real need in his own shop. The note-book is full of sug- 
gestions; shows a keen insight into subject-matter and teaching 
methods and is an effective teaching tool. Price, 15 cents. 

WOOD PATTERN-MAKING 

By Horace T. Purfield. A clear, concise treatise on the funda- 
mental principles of pattern-making. It presents the best 
methods of construction and those most easily understood by 
the student. It is not arranged about a course of problems but 
may be used with any course. A practical text for high school, 
trade school, technical school and engineering college students. 



Written by an experienced pattern-maker and teacher of pattern- 
making and kindred subjects. Price, $1.25. 

BOOKS OF PROBLEMS 

PROJECTS FOR BEGINNING WOODWORK AND MECHANICAL 
DRAWING 

By Ira S. Griffith. A work book for the use of students in 
grammar grade ciasses. It consists of working drawings and 
working directions. The projects are such as have proven of 
exceptional service Where woodworking and mechanical drawing 
are taught in a thoro, systematic manner in the seventh and 
eighth grades. The aim has been to provide successful rather 
than unique problems. The 50 projects in the book have been 
selected and organized with the constant aim of securing the 
higiiest educational lesults. The book is especially suited for 
use in connection with "Essentials of Woodworking" by the same 
author. Price, 7 5 cents. 

ADVANCED PROJECTS IX WOODWORK — FURNITURE 
MAKING 

By Ira S. Griffith. This took is similar to "Projects for Begin- 
ning Woodwoik and Mechanical Drawing," but is suited to high 
scl.oOi needs. It consists of fifty plates of problems and accom- 
pan>ing notes. It is essentially a collection of problems in 
furniture making selected and designed with reference to school 
use. On the plate with each working drawing is a good per- 
spective sketch of the completed object. In draftsmanship and 
refinement of design these problems are of superior quality. 
It is in every respect an excellent collection. Price, 75 cents. 

PROBLEMS IN WOOD-TURNING 

By Fred D. Crawshaw. A textbook on the science and art of 
wood-turning. Contains 25 full-page plates of working drawings 
covering spindle, faceplate, and chuck turning. It gives the 
mathematical basis for the cuts used in turning. A helpful dis- 
cussion of the principles of design as applied to objects turned 
in wood. It is a clear, practical and suggestive book on wood- 
turning, and a valuable textbook for students' use. Price, 80 
cents. 



Published by THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS, Peoria, Illinois 



^ M 






BOOKS ON WOODWORKING 



BOOKS OF PROBLEMS (Continued) 

probIjEms in furniture making 

By F'red D. Crawsliaw. The revised and enlarged edition of 
this well-known book contains 4 3 full-page working drawings of 
articles of furniture. Every piece shown is suitable for con- 
struction in high school classes, and is appropriate and service- 
able in the home. In addition to the working drawings, there 
is a perspective sketch of each article completed. There are 
36 pages of text giving notes on the construction of each project, 
chapters on the "Design," and "Construction" of furniture, and 
one on "Finishes." The last chapter describes 15 methods of 
wood finishing, all adapted for use on furniture. Price, $1.00. 

FURNITURE DESIGN FOR SCHOOLS AND SHOPS 

By Fred D. Crawshaw. A manual on furniture design. A book 
that will stimulate and encourage designing and initiation on the 
part of the student. It contains a collection of plates showing 
perspective drawings of typical designs, representing particular 
types of furniture. Each perspective is accompanied by sug- 
gestions for rearrangement and the modeling of parts. The text 
discusses and illustrates principles of design as applied to furni- 
ture. A practical and helpful book that should be in the hands 
of every teacher of cabinet making and designing. Price, $1.00. 

MANUAL TRAINING TOYS FOR THE BOYS' WORKSHOP 

By H. W. Moore. A popular boys' book that is truly educa- 
tional. The book contains 111 pages, 3 5 of which are full-page 
plates of working drawings illustrating 42 projects. All the 
projects are overflowing with "boy" interest, are well adapted to 
the upper grades of the elementary school and are new in the 
manual training shop. The text treats of tools and tool processes 
ana gives instructions for making each project. Price, $1.00. 

REFERENCE BOOKS 

HANDWORK IN WOOD 

By William Noyes. A handbook for teachers and a textbook 
for normal school and college students. The best reference book 
available for teachers of woodworking. A comprehensive and 
scholarly treatise, covering logging, sawmilling, seasoning and 



measuring, hand tools, wood fastenings, equipment and care of 
the shop, the common joints, types of wood structures, principles 
of joinery, and wood finishing. 304 illustrations — excellent pen 
drawings and many photographs. Price, $2.00. 

WOOD AND FOREST 

By William Noyes. A companion volume to "Handwork in 
Wood," by the same author. Especially adapted as a reference 
book for teachers of woodworking. Not too difficult for use as 
a textbook for normal school and college students. Treats of 
wood, distribution of American forests, life of the forest, enemies 
of the forest, destruction, conservation and uses of the forest, 
with a key to the common woods by Filibert Roth. Describes 
67 principal species of wood with maps of the habitat, leaf draw- 
ings, life size photographs and microphotographs of sections. 
Contains a general bibliography of woods. Price, $3.00. 

CORRELATED COURSES IN WOODWORK AND MECHANICAL 
DRAWING 

By Ira S. Griffith. This book meets the everyday need of the 
teacher of woodworking and mechanical drawing for reliable in- 
formation concerning organization of courses, subject-matter, 
and methods of teaching. It covers classification and arrange- 
ment of tool operations, stock bills, cost of material, records, shop 
conduct, the lesson, maintenance, equipment and lesson outlines 
for grammar and high schools. It is based on sound pedagogy, 
thoro technical knowledge and successful teaching experience, 
and is the most complete and thoro treatment of the subject of 
teaching woodworking ever published. Price, $1.50. 



Jk M 



BOOKS ON THE MANUAL ARTS 

A bibliography listing and describing over four hundred books, 
including the standard and the best of the recent publications 
in this field. It is completely indexed by subject, author, and 
title. A valuable aid in selecting textbooks, teachers' handbooks, 
and reference books for personal and school libraries. Mailed 
free on request. 



Published by THE MANUAL ARTS PRESS, Peoria, Illinois 



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